It’s mostly the images of colorful ethnic, traditional, printed, and embroidered Indian wear that pops in one’s mind when one thinks about Indian fashion. Though these nuances do represent the Indian sartorial sensibilities, there is more than meets the eye.
Many Indian designers are perfectly blending the traditional and modern through their designs, and taking it a notch higher with their labels in India and abroad. With an eclectic fusion of contemporary silhouettes and Indian textiles, these designers are raising a toast to fashion in the global circuits.
Meet the five Indian designers who have been putting Indian fashion on the world map with their labels. These Indian-origin designers are taking over the world with each couture at a time.
Naeem Khan
The 63-year-old Indian-American designer is today a blue-chip name in fashion, with film stars, royals among his clients. From Cameron Diaz to Beyonce to Taylor Swift to Padma Lakshmi, Khan has styled the who’s who of international celebrities. But the biggest moment for the designer came when he styled former First Lady Michelle Obama in 2009 for the first state dinner. In no time, he became the most Googled name in the world. Since then, he has not only created more than 20 outfits for Michelle Obama but has also become a good friend of hers. Khan has taken all these opportunities delicately and has presented Indian fashion to the world in the best possible way.
Born in a traditional Marwari family, Saloni became interested in fashion since her teenage days. But her journey as a fashion designer began when she moved to London. However, it wasn’t until Emma Watson made an appearance on The Early Show in a dress by Saloni that things started moving drastically for the designer. Indian heritage is always at the forefront of her designs, and even Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton, couldn’t ignore Saloni’s creations. In 2015, Kate Middleton stepped out in a dress from Lodha’s Pre-fall collection, and since then, there has been no looking back for her.
Sabyasachi Mukherjee
Sabyasachi is one name that almost all Indian celebrities swear by. From light floral designs to intricate and classic lehengas, Sabyasachi is bringing traditional Indian wear to the forefront with his timeless designs. But not many know that the 47-year-old designer has styled Oprah Winfrey in 2018. She wore a custom-made black saree designed by Mukherjee for a photoshoot for Elle magazine. It was on Winfrey’s maiden trip to India that she met Mukherjee at a dinner hosted by the royal family, and the two have remained in touch since then.
In 1997, Princess Diana arrived in Pakistan in a blue salwar kameez designed by Ritu Kumar. Known to be the First Lady of Indian fashion, the 76-year-old designer has styled many global celebrities. From Spice Girls to Anoushka Shankar to Mischa Baron, the divas have had the opportunity to be styled by the ace designer.
Bibhu Mohapatra‘s exquisite designs have made him Hollywood’s favorite designer. The Odhisa-born and Manhattan-based designer has styled artists like Jennifer Lopez, Gwyneth Paltrow, Lupita Nyong’o, Hilary Swank, and Demi Lovato. But it was former First Lady Michelle Obama who changed the game for Mohapatra. “It was Michelle who essentially put me on the map when she arrived in India for her state trip wearing my outfit. To be able to collaborate with individuals like her has made me a very lucky guy,” he told NDTV.
Editor’s Take: Fashion is more than just the clothes we wear, it is a metaphor for identity. Through personal style, each individual announces who they are. Fashion has gone beyond the realm of a variety of fabrics, and over the years, has evolved into a sense of personal expression. And these Indian designers are who are taking over the world with their personal craft. A pursuit so rich that even international celebrities are taking notice of their talent. These designers have brought Brand India to the global platform and have truly become the Global Indians in its truest sense.
(October 30, 2021) The clean and contemporary silhouettes that are a perfect amalgamation of tradition and technology have made Rajesh Pratap Singh a distinct name in the world of fashion. His love for Indian handloom and a deep desire to showcase it to the global audience has catapulted him to the league of India's biggest designers. What began as an inclination for colours and designs in childhood has now taken a life of its own in the form of his label that's spreading wings across the world. The 42-year-old started his journey from Delhi's premiere fashion school which took him to Tuscany in Italy for training in menswear. The schooling ground led him to start his own label, and in no time, Singh became a known figure in the fashion world, thanks to his love for Indian textiles. [caption id="attachment_14642" align="alignnone" width="1920"] Rajesh Pratap Singh[/caption] Jaipur to Tuscany Born in the small town of Sri Ganganagar in Rajasthan, Singh grew up in Jaipur. Being raised in a family of doctors, his father, a cardiologist, expected him to pursue a career in medicine. However, a then young Singh was already attracted to the world of fashion, thanks to his cousin who
Jaipur. Being raised in a family of doctors, his father, a cardiologist, expected him to pursue a career in medicine. However, a then young Singh was already attracted to the world of fashion, thanks to his cousin who was a costume assistant on a BBC production set. Being surrounded by a canvas of desert and rocky mountains throughout his formative years, Singh was fascinated by the colourful attires of the region that were a stark contrast against the plain background. So during his graduation from Delhi's Sri Ram College of Commerce, he knocked on the doors of veteran designer David Abraham (of Abraham and Thakore) to take him under his wings and make him learn a few tricks of the trade. This exposure in the real world of fashion inspired Singh to enroll in the National Institute of Fashion Technology Delhi in 1994. The training ground helped mould the creative in him, and soon he took off to Tuscany to work at the Italian menswear label Marzotto.
"As a school boy, I always looked up to Giorgio Armani, the way he constructed his jackets. They were modern yet classic. Learning jacket making from tailors at Arezzo was such an enriching experience. They basically mix tradition with craftsmanship. They follow the old tailoring concept in which aesthetics comes first and then comes the material," he told The Hindu in an interview.
Beginning of an Indian label
Singh was all of 24 when he landed a job at the Italian company, and the place turned out to be a perfect ground for him to hone his craft as he learned that machine and craftsmanship go hand in hand. After an enriching experience, Singh returned to India two years later to start his eponymous label in 1997.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XW34AF-Y724
It was his stint in Italy that made him realise that his should be an artisanal brand with strong Indian roots and a modern touch. And since its inception, Singh's label has been an ideal medley of technology and tradition. This blend caught the eye of fashion lovers when the designer exhibited his collection at the Wills Lifestyle Fashion Week (WIFW) in 2006. His minimalist style became an instant hit, and the very next year, WIFW introduced a line by Rajesh Pratap Singh. His work soon started getting attention in the international world and he was invited to the Paris Fashion Week in 2008 where he played with cotton and organza to create a splendid collection. For the next few years, Singh kept introducing Indian handlooms and textiles to the West through his various collections.
Global Journey
He even joined hands with Bollywood filmmaker Sanjay Leela Bhansali to design costumes for the French Opera Padmavati by Albert Roussel that was staged at the Theatre du Chatelet in Paris as well as in Spoletto in Italy. In 2011, this Global Indian became the first Indian designer to be invited by Vogue Italy for a show in Milan. Two years after achieving the feat, he was invited by the Kingdom of Bhutan work with Bhutanese fabrics for the opening of the Royal Textile Museum.
Singh has been one of those rare designers in India who doesn't dress up Bollywood stars because it's the common man that's his muse and not celebrities. "We are never dependent on celebrity endorsements to sell our clothes. In fact, we go out of our way to not mention the name of our clients to respect their privacy. People who like our clothes like them for what they are rather than some strange celebrity wearing it for some strange evening," he told DNA.
For Singh, his collection is more about textile and craftsmanship and he has maintained that for decades as he works directly with master weavers and artisans helping them develop their textiles into finer versions in silk, cotton and wool. "When I started out, it wasn't the popular kitsch and Bollywood representation - I wanted to show a different side of India. At that time, there was a great interest in textiles. The movement, sadly, lost steam in the 90s and now it's so fantastic to see that it's coming back strong. It's these aspects that are our strengths; the variables we get to play with as Indian designers. Our cultural context is just too strong, and that will always be our identity," the new creative director of Satya Paul told Vogue.
(June 26, 2023) Rocky S is a renowned fashion designer who has made a significant impact in the industry. With a passion for transforming fabric into art, Rocky S has dressed numerous celebrities, including Beyoncé, Priyanka Chopra Jonas, and Paris Hilton. His work has been showcased at international fashion weeks and his brand has gained recognition for its luxurious couture, bridal wear, and accessories. With meticulous attention to detail and a commitment to craftsmanship, Rocky S has established himself as one of India's top designers, captivating the fashion world with his innovative and exquisite designs. From a young age, Rocky Star found himself irresistibly drawn to the captivating allure of fashion. Whether it was observing trends, experimenting with styles, or simply appreciating the artistry behind clothing — he knew deep down that his destiny lay within the world of fashion design. He would help his friends select the perfect outfit for different events, and found he could style them flawlessly. “Even when I was in school, I was deeply captivated by the fashion world,” Rocky tells Global Indian. From Beyoncé and Paris Hilton to Priyanka Chopra Jonas, Carrie Underwood, Danielle Campbell, Kangana Ranaut and Nora Fatehi among others — Rocky S,
yanka Chopra Jonas, Carrie Underwood, Danielle Campbell, Kangana Ranaut and Nora Fatehi among others — Rocky S, as he is popularly known, has styled many celebrities across the world. He has also done six international shows including London Fashion Week (2016), Milan Fashion week (autumn/winter 2016), Dubai Fashion Week (2021) and LA Fashion Week (2022).
Born in Mumbai, Maharashtra in October 1970, a city he describes as brimming with culture and creativity, Rocky faced the loss of his father at a young age. “But my mother’s unwavering strength became a guiding light in my life,” informs Rocky, who has two elder brothers, one a chartered accountant and the other has made his mark in the realm of business construction.
Even back then, Rocky showed a deep interest in sartorial pursuits. “I still remember during holidays, my grandmother would create stunning outfits from scratch and lovingly gift them to us. I was truly captivated by the artistry of transforming a single piece of fabric into such garments,” smiles the ace designer. Alongside his passion for fashion, Rocky discovered an affinity for swimming, a sport that has influenced his life and values and remains indelible.
He went on to graduate with a bachelor’s degree in commerce, but swiftly transitioned to pursue his dreams in fashion design, enrolling at the esteemed JD Institute in Mumbai.
Brand Rocky S
His process begins with inspiration. "It consumes a significant portion of my time," he admits, "but serves as a catalyst for my creative flow. Once I find the perfect inspirations, my sketches come to life effortlessly." This inspriation springs from the people who hace influenced him, and played role in shaping his creative vision.
Rocky’s art is shaped by his love for travel, which he says ignited a passion for exploration. During his travels, he encountered remarkable gothic and baroque designs, which became a fount of inspiration for the ace designer. “These influences, combined with my unwavering vision, propelled me to establish my own brand in 1995, with a resolute mission to create relevant and luxurious couture for the ever-evolving women of today,” recalls Rocky, who is well known for his artistic mind and penchant for invention.
Over time, he nurtured a self-sustaining unit, housing skilled master craftsmen and artisans, who breathe life into each intricately designed piece. “At our atelier, we prioritize the art of precision, focusing on cut, comfort, fit, and finish, resulting in exquisite haute couture, bridal wear, luxury pret-a-porter, and accessories,” says Rocky.
Rocky now ships his creations worldwide, marking a remarkable evolution from his humble beginnings. “Today, we showcase our collections in prestigious multi-designer stores while maintaining our flagship store in Mumbai—a physical manifestation of our brand's essence, inviting fashion enthusiasts to immerse themselves in our world of style and craftsmanship,” he says.
Dressing up Beyoncé
Back in 2007, Rocky was pleasantly surprised to receive a phone call from the manager of superstar Beyonce, who was expected in Mumbai for a performance. The manager requested Rocky to bring a selection of outfits for the upcoming concert. “I swiftly gathered my team of assistants and headed to the hotel, armed with a carefully curated collection of 10-12 exquisite ensembles.”
As he presented the options to Beyonce, her eyes lit up with delight and after careful consideration, she ultimately chose the resplendent pink lehenga-choli for her stellar performance, says Rocky. He doesn’t just cater to the stars and their high-profile events, however. He works with the common people as well, and has established a reputation in the fashion community for offering a combination of style and comfort.
Association with ‘Miss India’
For many years, Rocky has served as the fashion director for Miss World, and has had a long association with the Miss Indian pageant – he was an official designer for Femina Miss India 2023 as well. He curates wardrobes for winners at events and red carpets.
This year, he says, his association with the pageant grew stronger as he had the honor of designing every gown for the state winners. “The collection of gowns exudes classic sophistication with a contemporary twist feature simple appliqué patchwork of cut Dana and stones. The delicate embroidery adds just the right amount of sparkle and texture to the gowns,” he explains. Only the finest silk, taffeta and velvet were used to create the meticulously-crafted gowns.
Future plans
Currently immersed in creating his newest collection, Rocky is pouring all his creative energy into the smallest details. “My strategy is to expand the brand’s presence by opening new stores both within India and abroad,” he says. “This decision is driven by the growing demand from our esteemed clientele, who hail from diverse locations such as the US, Canada, London, and Dubai,” Rocky adds.
Rocky’s other interests
Rocky is someone whose interests encompass a wide range of sources that fuel his creative spirit. “While I don't have a specific hobby per se, I find immense joy in traveling, immersing myself in different cultures, and drawing inspiration from the vibrant tapestry of the world.” He also enjoys techno music, which he says resonates with his artistic sensibilities and serves as a backdrop for his creative process.
Fashion in India
Coming to the fashion scene in India, Rocky says people are currently embracing and celebrating a captivating neon revival, which has brought a fresh burst of energy and vibrancy to the scene. “Alongside this exciting trend, they are also exploring a myriad of captivating variations in saree styles, pushing the boundaries of traditional attire. These variations encompass a wide spectrum of design elements, ranging from unconventional draping techniques to experimentation with fabrics, textures, and embellishments,” explains the fashion designer.
Moreover, the anticipated rise in luxury spending in India by 2030 presents a promising landscape for the industry, he feels. “This upward trend in luxury spending suggests a growing demand for exclusive and high-end fashion products, creating a favorable environment for designers to showcase their craftsmanship and creativity as well,” he says, adding that opens up exciting opportunities to cater to the discerning tastes and aspirations of affluent clientele.
Rocky S stands as an extraordinary force in the realm of fashion, leaving an indelible mark on the industry with his visionary designs and impeccable craftsmanship. From dressing global celebrities to captivating audiences with his runway showcases, Rocky S has cemented his position as a leading fashion maestro in India and beyond. With his unwavering dedication to excellence and his ability to breathe life into every ensemble he creates, Rocky S continues to inspire and shape the world of fashion, leaving a lasting legacy that transcends trends and time.
(August 7, 2021; 10 am) A riot of colors accompanied by intricate patterns is what makes a woven fabric appealing. For decades, India has been a multi-cultural melting pot with diverse textiles and handlooms to its credit. It is this diversity that makes Indian designs and weaves alluring to one and all. And some Indian designers are on a mission to introduce this asset to the world, but with a modern touch. From zardozi to brocade, ikat to embroidery and even khadi, Indian designers are bringing the best of Indian handlooms and designs to the global stage with each collection. On National Handloom Day, we bring to you five Indian designers who are taking Indian textiles global. Anita Dongre With a flagship store in New York and having styled the likes of Kate Middleton, Beyonce, Hilary Clinton and Arianna Huffington, Anita Dongre is putting Indian textiles on the world map with her intricate designs. One of the earliest champions of sustainable fashion and Indian handlooms, the 57-year-old has given wings to local craftsmen and weavers through Grassroot Foundation which started in 2015. She is one of the few Indian designers who is working to revive traditional crafts and weaving techniques
ong>, Hilary Clinton and Arianna Huffington, Anita Dongre is putting Indian textiles on the world map with her intricate designs. One of the earliest champions of sustainable fashion and Indian handlooms, the 57-year-old has given wings to local craftsmen and weavers through Grassroot Foundation which started in 2015. She is one of the few Indian designers who is working to revive traditional crafts and weaving techniques while empowering local artisans and tribal women. House of Anita Dongre, her label, seeks to put out Indian craftsmanship for the world with the sole aim of uplifting artisans. In 2019, she paid a tribute to her artisans by making them walk the ramp at the Lakme Fashion Week. Her latest collection, Crafts of India - An Ode to Bhuj, is proof of her love for Indian crafts and silhouettes. Featuring handwoven fabrics, rich embroidery and intricate patterns, the collection is a perfect tribute to the people and landscape of Kutch.
David Abraham & Rakesh Thakore
For someone who had their handmade collection launched in high-end stores like Selfridges, Harrods, Liberty and Browns in London and Le Bon Marche in Paris in the 1990s, Abraham and Thakore made Indian textile available to Europe many decades ago. It was their love for handlooms and ikat (a traditional dyeing process) revival that brought Abraham and Thakore together. It was in 1992 that they launched their label and started to work with ikat weaves. Their experiments with ikat weaves that made them a global name in the fashion industry as the fabric opened up the floodgates of creativity. Stark, edgy and universal in appeal is the best way to describe their colllections: the designer duo has given a fresh lease of life to the dying art form of ikat. Such has been a buzz about their ikat designs that a sari from their Autumn Winter 2010/11 collection made it to Victoria and Albert Museum's permanent collection. Known for their fusion of modernity and tradition, Abraham and Thakore work has put traditional weavers from Andhra Pradesh, Odhisa and Gujarat on the map.
Ritu Kumar
From late Princess Diana to Mischa Barton, Ritu Kumar has styled some of the biggest names at a time when Indian textiles and handlooms hadn't left the port of India. She began investing in sustainable fashion back in the 1960s, decades before it even became fashionable. The 76-year-old was one of the earliest designers who brought Indian fashion and textiles to the world with her beautiful and intricate designs: she recognized that sustainability was intricately woven into India's consumption patterns. What it needed was to be polished and refined to present to the international market. Incidentally, Kumar had been doing a museology course in Calcutta when she first came across a group of hand-block printers who'd been left jobless as the art form had begun dying out. That is when she handed them her designs to print on saris and opened a small store. One thing led to another and Kumar's designs made their way to the international fashion runways.
Kumar redefined the fashion industry by infusing a new lease of life into the dying traditions of hand-block painting, zardozi embroidery and Benarasi brocade, thus giving the community of local weavers and artisans their due.
Sabyasachi Mukherjee
His designs sell like hot cakes in India, but Sabyasachi Mukherjee is also a name to reckon with in the international fashion circuit. While his designs are available in multi-brand luxury boutiques in the US and UK, it is in New York that he has his flagship store. It was 1999 that Mukherjee started his Sabyasachi label and is one of the pioneers in the use of Indian textiles in a modern context. He even started a project Save The Saree wherein he retails handwoven saris on a non-profit basis, and the proceeds go to the weavers of Murshidabad. Over the last few years, he has played an important role in reviving cotton Benarasi sari in pure khadi and handblock prints from Bagru. Mukherjee, who has built his million-dollar business, credits his success to working closely with the grassroot level. Be it the zardozi work or the intricate embroideries, it's the Indian craft and artists that the 47-year-old designer is backing with each of his collection.
Gaurang Shah
Known as the textile revivalist, Gaurang Shah is one of the those designers who brought Indian handloom back in vogue. The story that began at his dad's small sari store when a young Shah fell in love with the art of weaving and decided to create handwoven saris in Khadi, silk and cotton is now breathing a life of its own. In 2001 when traditional handlooms were almost a dying art form, Shah took up the challenge of bracing the handloom back in the world of fashion. His work is a tribute to the Indian textiles and master weavers who are bringing out beautiful fabrics in a traditional way. His collaboration with almost 800 master weavers from Andhra Pradesh, Rajasthan, Kolkata and Chennai has helped him showcase Indian textiles to the global fashion circuit. In 2012, Shah brought Khadi to life at Eco-Designers Lavera Showfloor in Berlin by blending it with jamdani weave and natural dyes. With new-found appreciation for handloom in the US, the National Award-winning designer has been retailing at a New Jersey-based boutique, The Mall at Oak Tree, and making the versatility of Indian textiles and weaves popular in the contemporary world.
Editor's Take
India is one of those rare countries that still creates textiles coming from the wisdom and brilliance of master weavers using traditional techniques. Many big designers are keeping up with the tradition and making the best of couture with the help of these skilled and talented local artists and weavers, thus helping Brand India shine globally.
(May 18, 2022) The term fashion world often brings to mind the image of well-known designers, supermodels, and ramp walks. But Ruma Devi is unlike any fashion designer, she is a superwoman for her peers. Responsible for single-handedly placing the handwoven designs of the artisans from Rajasthan on the global fashion map, the 33-year-old handicraft artisan, in the process, has empowered the lives of thousands of rural women from the Barmer region. From providing job opportunities in embroidery work to making local women participate in fashion shows across the world, Ruma has done everything. A school dropout, Ruma is a national awardee, a TedEx speaker and already a towering personality when it comes to women empowerment. She was also honoured by Nari Shakti Puraskar in 2019. [caption id="attachment_24583" align="aligncenter" width="792"] Ruma Devi[/caption] Early life Ruma was only four when her mother passed away and she spent most of her childhood at her grandmother's house. "I used to see my grandmother doing embroidery work. In fact, almost every house in the Barmer district used to wear clothes with embroidery done by women of the house. I never thought that I’d do it one day, but learnt it anyway," Ruma tells Global
doing embroidery work. In fact, almost every house in the Barmer district used to wear clothes with embroidery done by women of the house. I never thought that I’d do it one day, but learnt it anyway," Ruma tells Global Indian.
Coming from a conservative rural family, Ruma dropped out of school at an early age and was married at 16. She didn't even understand the responsibilities of her marriage when a tragedy struck. "I was lost and I was coming to terms with it when the most devastating thing happened. I lost my first child due to an illness. I didn't have enough money to get my child the right treatment. It angered me so much and I went into depression," recalls the handicraft artisan.
Still in her late teens, she knew she had a long life ahead, but the child's face kept haunting her. "I couldn't do anything and felt aimless. I decided to distract myself with something that could keep me occupied." She had two options, either to work as a maid in someone's house or take up embroidery and try her luck. "I decided to pick embroidery. I could do embroidery on bags that villagers carry when they visit their relatives. But I had no money to get the bags in the first place," laughs Ruma. In 2008, she convinced a few women to come together and buy a sewing machine for stitching bags and do embroidery on them. "We bought a second-hand sewing machine and that's how we started, she adds.
Few months into it, Ruma realised there wasn’t enough work. "After all, how many bags could we sell to the people in the village," she says. That’s when the search for new customers began which brought them to Gramin Vikas Evam Chetna Sansthan (GVCS), an NGO that works for the upliftment of women in the region. "They gave us three days to finish an embroidery assignment and bring the bags to them. Everybody was so thrilled that we worked the entire night, and were done with our job by the next day," laughs Ruma, for whom there was no looking back as she kept getting more work from the sansthan, which she would head a few years down the line!
[caption id="attachment_24588" align="aligncenter" width="960"] Ruma Devi receives Nari Shakti Award from Ram Nath Kovind[/caption]
The challenges along the way
While Ruma and her group of women were expanding to nearby villages and had become a big collective of talented artisans, voices of discouragement tried to dampen their spirit. Many women were not allowed to step out of their homes despite their success. But Ruma convinced them to work from their homes while those allowed to step out would do the marketing bit in districts outside Barmer. Soon people started liking their work and more work followed.
It was time to step out of Rajasthan, and a trade show in Delhi in 2011 was the perfect opportunity to do that. But the decision didn’t find much support from her family members as she was charting into an unknown territory. Ruma had butterflies, but she feared nothing. Although the business was not great, it helped her understand the market well. The next year brought with it ₹11 lakh, which was way beyond their expectation. This helped the women to believe in themselves and in the leadership of Ruma.
What began with Ruma is now 30,000 strong. Currently women do applique and various types of embroidery work on upholstery items and everyday clothes. "We have uplifted many families from poverty," she beams with pride.
In 2010, Ruma took over as the president of GVCS and under her leadership, it has expanded operations to 75 villages and trained 11,000 artisans so far. The organisation is now collaborating with tribal women and taking it across India and to the world. The 32-year-old also collaboratively started sister producer company, Applique Handicrafts Producer Company for artisans.
The Fashion Diva
The ramp bug bit Ruma after she witnessed a fashion show in Jaipur a few years ago, and since her band of women were designing clothes too, she wanted to give it a try.
“Again, people within and outside said that our clothes were not made for the ramp and that we should stick to what we were doing. But since we had come this far, I saw no harm in trying something new," says Ruma, adding, "I felt a fashion show would be a good platform to showcase our work yet I had no clue how to go about it. A few designers told me, 'You are supposed to stitch and not just embroider. Stitching is not your thing’.” These hurtful remarks made Ruma more determined to participate. She wanted people to see the artisans who often remain voiceless and faceless in the glamourous world of fashion.
In 2016, Ruma and her team designed clothes for a fashion show at the Rajasthan Heritage Week, and they were an instant hit. Soon designers started making their way to Barmer to know more about their work and designs. Since then, she has not only worked with best in the Indian and global fashion circuit like Bibi Russell and Abraham & Thakore, she has also visited Germany, Singapore, Thailand, Sri Lanka, the US and UAE to promote the arts and craft. "Our designs are now sold in various parts of the world. We have also started shipping our line of home furnishing lines of products to USA, Dubai and UK," reveals the handicraft artisan.
Memorable moments
Life has taught Ruma that the sky is the limit if one is determined to overcome obstacles. A school dropout, Ruma received an honorary PhD from Mahatma Jyoti Rao Phule University, Jaipur in 2020. In 2019, she made an appearance at Kaun Banega Crorepati, "I was very nervous that I would sit next to Amitabh Bachchan. But he was so warm and gentle that I felt very comfortable," Ruma shares.
[caption id="attachment_24586" align="aligncenter" width="505"] Ruma Devi with Amitabh Bachchan on the sets of Kaun Banega Crorepati[/caption]
The very next year, she organised a crafts workshop at the Harvard University, wherein she was invited as a speaker for their 17th annual India Conference. But she procrastinated it for a bit as she was “shocked” by the invite and “ignored it for a few weeks.” Recalling the time, she says, “Firstly, I didn't dare to reply to that mail. Secondly, it was an expensive trip to go to the USA." But with the help of Bajaj Group, who sponsored her trip, she could do it.
Ruma might have been born in a small village in Rajasthan, but once she discovered the talent inside her, she never looked back. "I am a very ordinary woman who didn't know about her purpose, but things happened, and I never lost faith in my ability or in the women who trusted me," the handicraft artisan signs off.
(December 13, 2023) Designer Geethika Kanumilli’s world collapsed when she was diagnosed with anti-phospholipid syndrome, an irreversible immune system disorder that leads to abnormal blood clots. It led to the loss of vision in one of her eyes and threatened to put a full stop to her childhood dream of becoming a fashion designer. Geethika Kanumilli was not one to give up, however, not even when her eye condition worsened to the point where she had to drop out of fashion school. The iron-willed designer decided to take her challenges head-on, went on to launch her own fashion label and expanded her brand’s customer base to 12 countries and 45 cities. She has also dressed many celebrities including Kiara Advani, Madhuri Dixit, Samantha Ruth Prabhu, Trisha Krishnan, PV Sindhu and Allu Arjun. [caption id="attachment_47426" align="aligncenter" width="477"] Fashion designer Geethika Kanumilli | Photo: Instagram[/caption] Learning through mistakes “Everyone has their own idea of learning. Some believe it comes from earning a degree, reading books, or gaining work experience. For me, learning meant taking action,” points out fashion designer Geethika Kanumilli, in an exclusive with Global Indian. With no business or fashion background and no degree, Geethika has proved that through determination
ing. Some believe it comes from earning a degree, reading books, or gaining work experience. For me, learning meant taking action,” points out fashion designer Geethika Kanumilli, in an exclusive with Global Indian. With no business or fashion background and no degree, Geethika has proved that through determination and hard work, one can do the impossible.
The Hyderabad-based fashion designer has come a long, long way, and even if she had to take a long, difficult road to achieve her dreams, her creations are making waves across the globe. “I embraced the mindset of ‘doing’, being willing to make small mistakes and allowing circumstances to become my teacher,” she smiles. “Eventually, I realized that I had developed skills that surpassed what some of the highest educational institutions could offer,” she adds
Timeless designs, eco-friendly fashion
Geethika’s collections capture timeless sentiments with organic shapes, flowing fabrics and unique designs, creating an ambience that communicates volumes via touch and texture. “I intend to incorporate natural fabrics into occasion wear,” says Geethika, who is all about making her label eco-friendly and going zero waste. She also designs luxury craft items, tote bags from waste fabrics.
Her newly launched collection ‘Wilderness’, embraces the pure connection between Mother Earth and human emotions. “It captures timeless sentiments through organic shapes, flowing fabrics and unconventional designs,” says the 29-year-old. The heaviest piece in this collection took more than 300 working hours to create.
[caption id="attachment_47427" align="aligncenter" width="511"] The 'Gilded Noir saree set' (hand-embroidered, natural crepe) from the Wilderness collection[/caption]
She has done several exhibitions across the world, including Singapore and US, where she has a huge fan following. Her creations are also available at select stores in the US, UK and Dubai.
A childhood dream
Born in Chennai, Geethika always had a deep fasincation for clothing and fashion, and desired, deep down, to pursue a career that involved it. “Although I did not know what to call it at the time, I later discovered that people referred to this as being a Fashion Designer,” Geethika recalls.
She was so passionate about designing clothes that she would lock her door and play dress-up games on her computer instead of getting ready for school. “When I turned 14, I found myself contemplating how to become a fashion designer, but I had no idea where to begin. I was desperately searching for answers until a relative came into my life and showed me the path,” recalls Geethika, who did her schooling in Chettinaad Vidyashram, Chennai. She then moved to Hyderabad, where she has remained since.
A temporary deviation
However, when the time came to join the 11th grade, she encountered a common tradition in Hyderabad: the expectation to pursue either Engineering or MBBS (medical studies). “Anything other than these options was considered inadequate, and surpassing them was deemed abnormal. Unfortunately, I fell into this trap as well.”Since her math skills were not strong, Geethika chose to study BiPC as a compromise to satisfy the desires of those around me. “After completing my 12th grade, when I wanted to take the entrance exam for a Fashion Design college, everyone tried to convince me to pursue MBBS instead. It took great effort, but I managed to convince them and prepared for the entrance test,” says the ace fashion designer, who has been featured in many international magazines.
A health crisis
However, as she was looking forward to writing the entrance test to get admission in the fashion design institute, fate threw a severe health problem her way. Her vision began to blur. She was taken to various hospitals to find out what was wrong. “After visiting multiple hospitals, we finally discovered that it was anti-phospholipid syndrome, an irreversible immune system disorder that leads to abnormal blood clots,” informs Geethika.
[caption id="attachment_47428" align="aligncenter" width="482"] 'Animal' actor Rashmika Mandanna wearing a design by Geethika Kanumilli[/caption]
Losing vision in one of her eyes was an incredibly challenging and distressing period for Geethika and her family. A few months of medications later, she was ready to take her entrance exam. “Unfortunately, it was too late, and the registration had already closed until the following year. I had no choice but to wait. This tested my patience to the extreme, and it felt as if some greater force was at work.”
A time of uncertainty
Geethika ended up taking a one-year break, hoping the illness would ease. Nevertheless, her determination to become a fashion designer remained unshaken. The following year, she took the entrance test and got admission into the top Fashion Design college in Hyderabad. “Finally, nothing stood in the way of my dream. I was fully charged and motivated to make the most of this opportunity,” she says.
However, during her second year of college, the same health issue resurfaced and started to affect her working eye, particularly during stitching sessions. “Initially, I managed with the support of my classmates, but eventually, I realized that continuing like that was not feasible. It was at this moment that I recognised the need to let go of my dream of becoming a Fashion Designer permanently,” says Geethika, who felt helpless, and quitting college in the middle of her second year was a significant blow.
“People around me made fun of my decision, and I felt embarrassed for not having a degree. I endured insults and criticism, but I chose not to disclose my health issues to most of my relatives and friends. I didn't want to use it as an excuse.” It was an intense period of uncertainty, and Geethika spent an entire year feeling lost and exhausted from the cycle of quitting and resting.
However, one fine morning in 2015, she took a decision, regardless of the outcome. She decided to start my own fashion label as a designer. “I was only 20 then, without any professional work experience or a degree. Many people, including my own family, were against the idea of pursuing something different,” recalls Geethika.
Despite the challenges, she gathered the resources to start a small-scale business, targeting customers within a three-kilometer radius. “I had no prior knowledge or experience in running a business, but I was determined to learn as I went along.”
The initial days of running a business were incredibly challenging. “There were times when my vision would blur, and I would fear that each hard day of work would be my last day of sight. But whenever the choice to quit or continue arose, I was clear from the beginning that I was working for glory, not just for money,” she says.
After three years of consistent hard work, Geethika’s brand's customer base expanded to 12 countries and 45 cities through online sales. “This success brought appreciation from friends and family, who were unaware of the true reason why I had dropped out of college,” she says.
The creative process
When she begins to design a dress for a client, she approaches it with an intense thought: "This person must look their best wherever they go." Although it may sound simple, the intensity with which I think this thought is abnormally high. This mindset drives me to create the most unique color combinations possible,” she says of her work.
For Geethika, her clients are not just customers; they are the medium through which she expresses herself. “Their satisfaction and joy in wearing my designs fuel my passion and remind me that my journey as a fashion designer is far from over.”
Geethika believes her life taught her an important lesson. “When you achieve success, the flaws that others once saw in you become examples for them to follow. The secret is to remember this and strive to reach that point,” she feels.
Telling her story
While many of her friends and relatives were unaware why she had to drop out of college, Geethika revealed it through TEDx. “I have always desired to connect with individuals who may have experienced similar situations, believing that their pain is their enemy. However, looking back, I now understand that pain can be a friend. In my case, without the pain, I would not have been driven to achieve what I have today,” says the fashion designer.
Rocky S[/caption]
Ruma Devi receives Nari Shakti Award from Ram Nath Kovind[/caption]
Ruma Devi with Amitabh Bachchan on the sets of Kaun Banega Crorepati[/caption]
The 'Gilded Noir saree set' (hand-embroidered, natural crepe) from the Wilderness collection[/caption]
'Animal' actor Rashmika Mandanna wearing a design by Geethika Kanumilli[/caption]