Global IndianstoryShwetambari Mody: The designer bringing Indian craftsmanship to New York

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Shwetambari Mody: The designer bringing Indian craftsmanship to New York

Written by: Global Indian

(November 13, 2021) It’s the fusion of Indian craftsmanship and modern designs that make Shwetambari Mody’s fashion label a global name. The New York-based fashion designer is on a mission to preserve Indian crafts by providing a platform for their work to shine in the arena of international style and fashion. This very calling has put her on a global platform where her work is being recognised for being a perfect amalgamation of the East and the West.

Mody, who was always fond of art as a child, decided to translate her passion into a career that has now made her a global entity.

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From artist to fashion school

Born and raised in Mumbai, Mody was always interested in doodling. Art and sketching are something that resonated with her and to hone her craft, her parents enrolled her in art classes as a child and soon it became a part of who she was. During her teens, she found her mother to be the biggest influence on her as Mody would often accompany her to Rohit Khosla’s atelier where the pioneer of Indian fashion would drape fabrics on her mother. The sight was a sheer pleasure for this then teenager and she had already fallen in love with fashion. So after completing her schooling at Bombay Scottish School, her dream of pursuing fashion as a career came to fruition as she enrolled herself at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York at the age of 17.

While she learned the tricks of the trade at fashion school, Mody was also keen to enhance her management skills for any business is a perfect amalgamation of both. So her next stop was ESSEC Business School in Paris where she studied MBA in luxury brand management. “During my time in Paris, I fell in love with design craftsmanship and savoir-faire. It reminded me of Indian artisans, or karigars, who still use age-old techniques that have been passed down through generations,”she told Travel Curator in an interview.

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Her true calling

After completing her post-graduation, Mody landed a job working on the corporate side of fashion in textile research. But soon she started to miss the creativity and realised that she was ready to launch her brand as it was her true calling. “While big companies are great and they teach you a lot, you get a small section because you’re a cog in the machine. I thought, if I don’t do this now, I’ll never do this. The French talk about savoir-faire and they do an amazing job with it—but us Indians, we have it too. It’s called ‘karigaree’ which means artistry. This artistry is what I wanted to understand better, and how do you convert that into something that’s wearable for every day? So that is how I started this brand; it is a homage to my country and its artists,” she told CRFashion Book.

A global brand

In August 2020, Mody launched her eponymous label and since then has been bringing Indian craftsmanship to New York through her designs. The New York-based brand is a true homage to her homeland with its intricate handiwork embroidery embellishment and vivid prints but with a touch of NYC cool. A fine artist and painter, Mody decided to translate her craft onto fabric and see the magic happen.

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Talking about the inspiration behind her venture, this Global Indian told Travel Curator, “I was working in the corporate world before starting Shwetambari and I felt creatively deprived so I would always paint at home. It was one of my resin paintings that acted as the catalyst for me to create the collection. When you pour resin onto the canvas it does its own thing, it’s very organic and it got me thinking about how this could translate into something else I love and that is fabric.”

Mody is keen to bring her Indian influence to the collection so that the world gets to know about Indian craftsmanship. Through her collections, Mody is preserving the traditional Indian fashions by utilising the artisans’ technique in her design while incorporating modern techniques. The rising designer is providing a perfect East-meets-West experience to the global audience by putting Indian designs and artisans on the world map with her collection.

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Published on 13, Nov 2021

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Saran Kohli: The British-Indian designer who nailed Hollywood with Marvel’s Eternals

(September 17, 2021) Handlebar moustache and a sleek style is what makes British-Indian designer Saran Kohli stand out among the rest. The 34-year-old, who has an eponymous label, has become a name to reckon with in the fashion circles. So much so that even Hollywood's biggest studio Marvel couldn't ignore the designer who has styled the who's who of the entertainment industry. Kohli, who fell in love with fashion as a teenager while helping his mom set up her boutique, has now designed for one of the most-anticipated films of 2021 Eternals. Kohli, who started with big labels like Hugo Boss and Banana Republic, has come a long way in his Global Indian journey. Baby steps into fashion Born in East London in a Sikh family to immigrant parents who moved to the UK in the 70s, Kohli shifted to India at the age of two after his parents' divorce. It was in New Delhi that Kohli spent his initial days at his grandparents house while his mother started her own fashion business to build a new life for them. India gave Kohli the perfect opportunity to embrace his culture, and after spending 10 years, he returned to London with

his initial days at his grandparents house while his mother started her own fashion business to build a new life for them. India gave Kohli the perfect opportunity to embrace his culture, and after spending 10 years, he returned to London with his mom where she opened her first boutique.

It was his mom's boutique that became a schooling ground for Kohli in fashion. He would spend hours helping her in her sales and choreographing catwalk shows and that's how Kohli was introduced to the world of fashion. The texture, fabric and cuts is something that always attracted Kohli, and soon he found himself enrolled in London College of Fashion. After graduating in fashion management, Kohli found himself working for Japanese designer Michiko Koshino as a public relations and marketing assistant. This first hand experience of working with a designer helped Kohli understand the nuances of the craft and opened doors for him in labels like Hugo Boss and Banana Republic.

Knocking on the door with eponymous label

After learning the trick of the trade from the masters, Kohli launched his own fashion label Saran Kohli in 2009 - a one-stop shop for designer menswear. "I wanted to find that fine line between my heritage and a sartorial finishing with an informal approach to clothing where it could be worn in multiple fashion," he told Voice of Fashion. While his collections are manufactured in the UK and Europe, his craftsmanship is rooted in India as he works with the artisan families that his mom originally collaborated with.

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Within two years of introducing his label, Kohli bagged the Best Newcomer Award in Fashion Design at International Asian Fashion Awards 2011. This catapulted Kohli's business and in no time, Saran Kohli Label became a favorite with celebrities across the globe. From singer Jay Sean to cricketer Sachin Tendulkar to Mayor of London Sadiq Khan, Kohli has styled the best in the world. It's Kohli love for music, dance, travel and culture that often inspire his collections.

After featuring in New York Times, GQ UK, UK Esquire and Asian Wealth Magazine, Saran Kohli Label opened its first official store in London in 2016, and has been going strong ever since. While Kohli has styled some of most well-known personalities, his real big break came in the form of Marvel's Eternals.

The Marvel moment

It was in 2019 that a call from Marvel Studios's costume department that took Kohli by surprise. The designer received a request to create outfits for 52 dancers for a sequence in Marvel's most-anticipated film Eternals that has Kumail Nanjiani playing the first South Asian superhero. Kohli, who himself is a choreographer and dancer, leapt at the opportunity. Keeping up with Marvel's stringent confidentiality protocols, Kohli couldn't understand the magnitude of the project till he signed on the dotted lines.

"It was a direct call from the costume department of Marvel Studios. Initially, they didn't even tell me if it was for a film. They just told me that they are looking for some costumes for this scene that has got a bit of a dance sequence. This is the kind of feel. I didn't interrogate so much initially because I have done film costume design in the past and I thought it must be one of those regular films only. Later when they sent an email, the film name was different, it was a made-up name of a film. They asked me to meet them at the Pinewood Studios. And when they took this name I figured out that it is going to be a big-budget film. I initially thought it might be a Bollywood flick. But later when I spoke to one of the heads of the costume department at Marvel, I realized it was something big for sure," he told the Times of India.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WVDKZJkGlY

Working with Marvel Studio was an enriching experience for Kohli as it gave him a chance to represent his Indian roots. "Marvel doesn’t just have an American audience, it is in every corner of the earth. It makes us feel appreciated and also inspires a lot of young talent to embrace who we are," he added.

Vitiligo awareness

While Kohli was all over the news for bagging a plum project like Marvels, his range of vitiligo masks in 2020 equally became the talk of the town. For someone who has struggled with the skin condition for years, Kohli decided to spread awareness and combat the stigma around it through his new range. It was the age of 16 that Kohli saw the first white spot on his face and for years, he hid it behind his glasses and full-length clothing. It took him many years to be comfortable in his skin, and now he has started a dialogue to create awareness on vitiligo with his collection.

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"It is a great time to open up the avenues of fashion to the debate surrounding skin and a person’s skin color. We, as a generation, have been able to vocally express things that the previous generation has not been able to do," he told Indulge Express. Parts of the proceeds raised for the range were donated to the Vitiligo Society as a part of his advocacy and awareness campaign.

The 34-year-old Kohli, who fell in love with fashion at a young age, found his true calling in his label. And the designer has now put Indian fashion on the global map by designing for one of the biggest Hollywood films.

Reading Time: 5 min

Anita Dongre to Ritu Kumar: 5 designers who are taking Indian handloom global

(August 7, 2021; 10 am) A riot of colors accompanied by intricate patterns is what makes a woven fabric appealing. For decades, India has been a multi-cultural melting pot with diverse textiles and handlooms to its credit. It is this diversity that makes Indian designs and weaves alluring to one and all. And some Indian designers are on a mission to introduce this asset to the world, but with a modern touch. From zardozi to brocade, ikat to embroidery and even khadi, Indian designers are bringing the best of Indian handlooms and designs to the global stage with each collection. On National Handloom Day, we bring to you five Indian designers who are taking Indian textiles global. Anita Dongre With a flagship store in New York and having styled the likes of Kate Middleton, Beyonce, Hilary Clinton and Arianna Huffington, Anita Dongre is putting Indian textiles on the world map with her intricate designs. One of the earliest champions of sustainable fashion and Indian handlooms, the 57-year-old has given wings to local craftsmen and weavers through Grassroot Foundation which started in 2015. She is one of the few Indian designers who is working to revive traditional crafts and weaving techniques

strong>Beyonce, Hilary Clinton and Arianna Huffington, Anita Dongre is putting Indian textiles on the world map with her intricate designs. One of the earliest champions of sustainable fashion and Indian handlooms, the 57-year-old has given wings to local craftsmen and weavers through Grassroot Foundation which started in 2015. She is one of the few Indian designers who is working to revive traditional crafts and weaving techniques while empowering local artisans and tribal women. House of Anita Dongre, her label, seeks to put out Indian craftsmanship for the world with the sole aim of uplifting artisans. In 2019, she paid a tribute to her artisans by making them walk the ramp at the Lakme Fashion Week. Her latest collection, Crafts of India - An Ode to Bhuj, is proof of her love for Indian crafts and silhouettes. Featuring handwoven fabrics, rich embroidery and intricate patterns, the collection is a perfect tribute to the people and landscape of Kutch.

David Abraham & Rakesh Thakore

David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore | Indian Handlooms

For someone who had their handmade collection launched in high-end stores like Selfridges, Harrods, Liberty and Browns in London and Le Bon Marche in Paris in the 1990s, Abraham and Thakore made Indian textile available to Europe many decades ago. It was their love for Indian handlooms and ikat (a traditional dyeing process) revival that brought Abraham and Thakore together. It was in 1992 that they launched their label and started to work with ikat weaves. Their experiments with ikat weaves that made them a global name in the fashion industry as the fabric opened up the floodgates of creativity. Stark, edgy and universal in appeal is the best way to describe their colllections: the designer duo has given a fresh lease of life to the dying art form of ikat. Such has been a buzz about their ikat designs that a sari from their Autumn Winter 2010/11 collection made it to Victoria and Albert Museum's permanent collection. Known for their fusion of modernity and tradition, Abraham and Thakore work has put traditional weavers from Andhra Pradesh, Odhisa and Gujarat on the map.

Ritu Kumar

Fashion designer Ritu Kumar | Global Indian

From late Princess Diana to Mischa Barton, Ritu Kumar has styled some of the biggest names at a time when Indian textiles and handlooms hadn't left the port of India. She began investing in sustainable fashion back in the 1960s, decades before it even became fashionable. The 76-year-old was one of the earliest designers who brought Indian fashion and textiles to the world with her beautiful and intricate designs: she recognized that sustainability was intricately woven into India's consumption patterns. What it needed was to be polished and refined to present to the international market. Incidentally, Kumar had been doing a museology course in Calcutta when she first came across a group of hand-block printers who'd been left jobless as the art form had begun dying out. That is when she handed them her designs to print on saris and opened a small store. One thing led to another and Kumar's designs made their way to the international fashion runways.

Kumar redefined the fashion industry by infusing a new lease of life into the dying traditions of hand-block painting, zardozi embroidery and Benarasi brocade, thus giving the community of local weavers and artisans their due.

Sabyasachi Mukherjee

Sabyasachi Mukherjee is making fashion global

His designs sell like hot cakes in India, but Sabyasachi Mukherjee is also a name to reckon with in the international fashion circuit. While his designs are available in multi-brand luxury boutiques in the US and UK, it is in New York that he has his flagship store. It was 1999 that Mukherjee started his Sabyasachi label and is one of the pioneers in the use of Indian textiles in a modern context. He even started a project Save The Saree wherein he retails handwoven saris on a non-profit basis, and the proceeds go to the weavers of Murshidabad. Over the last few years, he has played an important role in reviving cotton Benarasi sari in pure khadi and handblock prints from Bagru. Mukherjee, who has built his million-dollar business, credits his success to working closely with the grassroot level. Be it the zardozi work or the intricate embroideries, it's the Indian craft and artists that the 47-year-old designer is backing with each of his collection.

Gaurang Shah

Fashion designer Gaurang Shah | Lavera Showfloor

Known as the textile revivalist, Gaurang Shah is one of the those designers who brought Indian handlooms back in vogue. The story that began at his dad's small sari store when a young Shah fell in love with the art of weaving and decided to create handwoven saris in Khadi, silk and cotton is now breathing a life of its own. In 2001 when traditional handlooms were almost a dying art form, Shah took up the challenge of bracing the handloom back in the world of fashion. His work is a tribute to the Indian textiles and master weavers who are bringing out beautiful fabrics in a traditional way. His collaboration with almost 800 master weavers from Andhra Pradesh, Rajasthan, Kolkata and Chennai has helped him showcase Indian textiles to the global fashion circuit. In 2012, Shah brought Khadi to life at Eco-Designers Lavera Showfloor in Berlin by blending it with jamdani weave and natural dyes. With new-found appreciation for Indian handloom in the US, the National Award-winning designer has been retailing at a New Jersey-based boutique, The Mall at Oak Tree, and making the versatility of Indian textiles and weaves popular in the contemporary world.

Editor's Take

India is one of those rare countries that still creates textiles coming from the wisdom and brilliance of master weavers using traditional techniques. Many big designers are keeping up with the tradition and making the best of couture with the help of these skilled and talented local artists and weavers, thus helping Brand India shine globally.

Find more fascinating Stories

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Waris Ahluwalia: The NY-based Sikh designer-actor who has a day dedicated to him for fighting racial discrimination

(August 4, 2021; 9.30 am) Serendipity - something Waris Ahluwalia is not alien to. Be it his first Hollywood film offer, the launch of his boutique store House of Waris or a day in his honor, 47-year-old Ahluwalia has been at the right place at the right time. But the polymath has gone from strength to strength in the last few decades. From fashion to jewelry and films to activism, this Indian American has been a prominent face of it all. Though many things have happened as an act of fate in this designer and actor's life, he has always worked for what matters the most to him - standing up for religious tolerance and speaking out against racial discrimination. But it hasn't been an easy journey for this boy from Amritsar who made it big on the global stage. The odd one out in America It was in Punjab where Ahluwaia's journey began. Born to a linguistic professor father and a teacher mother in Amritsar, Ahluwalia was all of five when he moved to an American neighborhood in New York with his parents. With no Indians or Sikh friends around, his family made sure to keep him rooted to

orhood in New York with his parents. With no Indians or Sikh friends around, his family made sure to keep him rooted to his Indianness.

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Being a Sikh boy among Americans, he was often made to feel like the odd one out. But Ahluwalia was unperturbed as he was too comfortable in his skin.

"Whenever you're different, your existence presents a challenge for other people. You're the odd man out. But I think from an early age I was just comfortable with who I was, largely due to the way I was brought up," he told NBC.

His lesson in diversity began early when his father named him after his favorite poet Waris Shah. "He didn't give me a traditional, Indian, Sikh name, which are beautiful names. But it just made an extra point for me. Even within my own community, I didn't fit in," added Ahluwalia.

With his roots firm in Indian culture, he opted for political science and liberal arts for his major. After completing his studies, he dabbled in a few creative projects before serendipity hit him at a lavish boutique in Los Angeles.

How serendipity led him to House of Waris and Hollywood

It was at Maxfields that two elaborate self-designed diamond rings that adorned his fingers caught the fancy of its owners. Pleased by the intricate design, they placed their order for the rings, and in no time, the whole bunch was sold out, and the fashion press came calling at his doors. Ahluwalia, who until then had never intended on designing jewelry, started learning the intricacies of the trade and opened his own boutique, House of Waris in 2007. The New York-based boutique has become a one-stop shop for exquisite jewelry, ceramics and textiles which are handcrafted by artisans from across the globe.

If becoming a jewelry designer was a beautiful accident, his arrival into Hollywood was nothing short of an act of fate.

It was on a balmy afternoon in 2003 over lunch that director Wes Anderson offered Ahluwalia a part in The Life Aquatic With Steve Zissou that had Bill Murray, Owen Wilson and Cate Blanchett as his co-stars. "He sent me the script for his new movie and told me he had a part for me. He did not even call me for an audition,” Ahluwalia told The National News.

[caption id="attachment_6611" align="aligncenter" width="811"] Waris Ahluwalia in The Darjeeling Express Waris Ahluwalia and Owen Wilson in a still from The Darjeeling LImited[/caption]

This was the beginning of Ahluwalia's journey in Hollywood. For the next few years, he made appearances in films like The Darjeeling Limited (2007), I Am Love (2010), The Grand Budapest Hotel (2014), Beeba Boys (2015) and Ocean's 8 (2018). Despite being a Sikh, Ahulwalia has never been stereotyped on screen, and it's this ability that he plays to the gallery every single time.

His love for films and jewelry had also extended to the realm of fashion. For someone who often appeared on the Best Dressed Men lists in Vanity Fair, Vogue and GQ, he hit another milestone in 2013 when he became the first Sikh man to model for Gap, and make a statement on tolerance with ad campaign #MakeLove. However, the subway advertisement came under a full-blown racial attack when it was defaced with messages by vandals. The caption "Make Love" was altered to "Make Bombs" by the culprits. Gap backed their model and changed its Twitter background to the picture of Ahluwalia to show solidarity and support. This gesture found appreciation from the Sikh community who soon started a Thank You Gap campaign.

Waris Ahluwali in Gap advertisement

"I'm from New York. People write things on subway posters all the time. When that happened, I wasn't hurt. But I was amazed at the response. I think it was a beautiful thing. What it did was create an opportunity for dialogue and race relations," said Ahluwalia.

But this wasn't Ahluwalia's first tryst with racial discrimination. After the 9/11 attacks, Ahluwalia was eyed suspiciously for he wore a turban and sported a beard.

In a conversation with Times of India, he said,

"I remember the months following 9/11 - people would glare at me with anger and hate as I walked down the street here in New York. My own city, my home. Six months after that terrible day I was assaulted and nearly lost my vision in my right eye. The oldest and strongest emotion known to mankind is fear. The hate and anger experienced is one of its ugliest byproducts - fear of the 'other'. When I was punched in the face, I could have let fear get the better of me. But then I would have truly lost. So, instead I decided to fight the fear - and to do so with love, understanding, and education."

In February 2016, Ahluwalia once again faced discrimination when he was denied entry into a flight from Mexico to New York because he refused to take off his turban during security check. Not one to be easily rattled, he posted a photo on Instagram explaining the situation. The incident was met with outrage on social media and soon Aeromexico issued an apology. He later said that he wasn't angry but wanted to raise awareness about racism that one faces at airports.

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Winning everyone with his #LoveNotFear, the designer-actor was in for a surprise when New York City mayor decided to dedicate a day to Ahluwalia. Bill de Blasio declared October 19, 2016 as Waris Ahluwalia Day in recognition of the Sikh-American actor and designer for his powerful message of countering ignorance and advocating for religious understanding and tolerance.

"Put love in all that you do. Exist with love. It's our only weapon against fear. Know yourself as love and know the stranger you pass on the street as love — not as the other. There is no other. Just us. That's how I do it. With love and empathy. Each and every day," he said.

Giving Back

Apart from raising awareness against racial discrimination, Ahluwalia is involved with saving Asian Elephants of India with an NGO, Elephant Family. Every two years, he embarks on a 500 kilometre journey across the Indian countryside to raise money for the charity. "We raise awareness across the world about the dire need for conservation. The money goes to protecting the elephant corridors and the villagers who live amongst the wildlife. We're working to create a world where wildlife and humanity can co-exist.”

A designer, an actor, a model, and an activist - Waris Ahluwalia is a creative polymath. He loves fashion, films, jewelry and activism in equal measure. For someone who began his career by chance to becoming a torchbearer of cultural inclusivity, Ahluwalia has come a long way.

Editor's Take

Ahluwalia has many firsts to his name - the first Sikh man to model for Gap and the first Indian-American to get a day dedicated to himself. The 47-year-old is not just a name to reckon with in the fashion industry, but has found respect among many for advocating for religious tolerance. And that's what makes him a perfect story of inspiration.

Reading Time: 7 mins

Priya Ahluwalia: The London-based designer is saving the planet with every new collection

(October 18, 2021) Her eponymous label found its roots in heritage and sustainability. Who could have thought that a trip to Lagos in Nigeria and Panipat in India would give birth to a fashion label that will become the face of sustainable fashion in international market? Meet Priya Ahluwalia, a London-based designer who is making people rethink their choices in fashion like no one else. The 29-year-old, in a short span, has become a name to reckon with and is making people sit up and take notice of her designs, one collection at a time. The designer, who made it to the Forbes 30 Under 30 list last year, is rising up the ladder with her craft that is hugely influenced by her Indian and Nigerian heritage. Here's the story of this Global Indian who is consciously working to save the planet with every design that she creates. [caption id="attachment_13328" align="aligncenter" width="658"] Priya Ahluwalia with her models[/caption] A trip to two countries set the course for her career Born to an Indian mother and a Nigerian father in London in 1992, Ahluwalia was always fascinated by colors and fashion. In her words, her mother was quite stylish and she loved

="Priya Ahluwalia" width="658" height="369" /> Priya Ahluwalia with her models[/caption]

A trip to two countries set the course for her career

Born to an Indian mother and a Nigerian father in London in 1992, Ahluwalia was always fascinated by colors and fashion. In her words, her mother was quite stylish and she loved trying on her clothes constantly. This love for clothing gave birth to her desire of becoming a fashion designer. But since Ahluwalia was quite studious, her mom was keen to make her a lawyer. So when she decided to fulfill her childhood dream and enrolled in the University for the Creative Arts, Epsom for a course in fashion, her family was quite shocked. However, Ahluwalia was sure about her decision.

But during her graduation, something peculiar happened and it set the course of her career. It was on a trip to Nigeria to meet her father in 2017 that Ahluwalia noticed hawkers on the streets of Lagos wearing some obscure items of British clothing. An inquisitive Ahluwalia rolled down the windows of her car to indulge in a chit-chat with them asking them about their clothes. That small rendezvous and some research on the internet led her to the the second-hand clothing market in the city that has stocks coming in from unwanted donations to British charity shops and then sold by various traders for profit. The journey of these clothes left Ahluwalia fascinated and she was keen to explore more about the huge amounts of clothes that are discarded by Western countries each year.

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This led her to Panipat in India, a city that's often described as the garment recycling capital of the world. Seeing the colossal amount of waste clothing that was stacked into mountainous piles and sorted by color, Ahluwalia was both disturbed as well as moved with the scale of the problem. Since the 29-year-old was studying on the Menswear MA course at London's Westminster University, this inspired her collection during her MA.

"All of this shocked me in a number of ways. Firstly, I couldn't believe that secondhand clothing was such a big business. I was also completely shocked at the sheer amount of clothes that are discarded, I had never really thought about it properly before. I suppose it is easy to ignore something that you don't really see. It also really made me cherish craft and tradition in textiles," she told Ignant in an interview.

The birth of her label

During her trip to both the countries, Ahluwalia began to document what she saw as photographs and soon released a book titled Sweet Lassi that had the imagery of these places as well as the pictures from her MA collection which was made from repurposed fabrics. It was the success of the book and collection that brought the second-hand garment industry onto fashion agenda. Her graduation collection was purchased by British retailer LN-CC and this eventually led to launch her label, Ahluwalia with sustainable principles.

Her debut collection was proof of her conscious choices as she used second hand garment reworked as menswear to highlight the industry's problem with waste. It's not just her technique and material choice but also her production methods that set her apart as a designer. For her Summer Spring 2019 collection, the beading on her patchwork pants was done by Sewa Delhi, an organization that specializes in getting rural Indian women into fairly paid work that fits around their family schedule. The collection was such a hit that it won her the H&M Global Design Award 2019. The same year she collaborated with Adidas at Paris Fashion Week for Autumn/Winter 2019 and took over the ramp at London Fashion Week 2020 with her Spring/Summer 2021 collection.

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Sustainable fashion is the key

All the pieces at Ahluwalia are made exclusively from recycled deadstock. She is one of those rare young designers who are openly addressing issues like climate crisis and sustainability. "I think the correlation between young designers talking about these issues is that more young designers are of BAME (Black, Asian, Minority Ethnic) backgrounds than ever before. This means that for the first time, designers from ethnic minorities are able to share their stories and work through their own voice," the Forbes 30 Under 30 designer told CNN.

Since the launch of her label, Ahulwalia has been drawing inspiration from her Indian and Nigerian roots for her collection, and that's what makes her work unique and intriguing at the same time. "I am always inspired by my heritage and upbringing. I am Nigerian and Indian, and I was brought up in London, they are all places with such a wealth of culture and inspiration. I love the vibrancy of Lagos style, the craftsmanship of Indian textiles and the typical mixed wardrobe of a London man. They fuse together to create collections that are serious and playful at the same time," she told GQ.

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In just three years, Ahluwalia has become a rising star in fashion - someone who is making the world rethink about their sartorial choices and asking the fashion industry to make conscious choice to reduce the carbon footprint by opting for sustainable fashion.

Reading Time: 6 min

Anjali Phougat: From winning Indian beauty pageant to creating luxury fashion brand in the US

(November 18, 2021) Many famous people are left-handed - industrialist Ratan Tata, cricket great Sachin Tendulkar, even Barack Obama. And lefties are often stigmatised. The enterprising Anjali Phougat is no exception. Putting on a brave face, she concentrates on honing her creativity. Today, she is not just a household name in the world of fashion but also a film maker who recently won the Best Short Film Award at the Cannes Film Festival in the global short film category for her LGBT rights-inspired Inclusion Through Unity (2021). From the shy and reticent girl who was mercilessly teased and criticised at school for being a “leftie,” a new Anjali took sail. Strong-willed, she bounced back with determination. At 16, she started designing bespoke outfits – wowing friends and family. Two years later, this pretty lass who is Miss Haryana 2000, got an impetus that instilled belief and confidence in her. "People who used to criticise and make fun of me because I was a leftie now admire my talent, work and creativity," smiles Anjali Phougat, the Ohio-based self-taught designer and founder of Designer Dream Collection, speaking exclusively to Global Indian. Lefties are highly creative, good at divergent thinking and facing challenges,

and facing challenges, and Anjali essays these qualities well.

[caption id="attachment_16026" align="aligncenter" width="843"] Anjali Phougat[/caption]

Designs on her mind

The Haryana born migrated to the United States when she got married, and soon launched her own luxury brand that created waves at the New York Fashion Week, and other pageants. Anjali is today, among the top names in the world of fashion. She has doggedly worked on her craft to add wardrobe stylist, certified interior designer and filmmaker to her skillsets.

Her debut film Inclusion Through Unity showcased her designs, and also added writing and producing to her talent list. She wrote the film’s script with Vincent Natasha Gay and also produced the film which explores gender inequality and issues concerning the LGBT community. The film is directed by Alex Rogers. While the glitz and glamour of fashion has her bright eyed, there is a serious advocate ready to be the voice for the downtrodden. Working tirelessly towards social causes especially mental health in a pandemic-ridden world, LGBT rights and victims of domestic violence both in India and the US concern her.

[caption id="attachment_16027" align="aligncenter" width="587"] Founder of Designer Dream Collection | The Global Indian Anjali Phougat[/caption]

"The film focuses on positivity, diversity and inclusivity. Winning the award for my cause-based film was a big moment for the entire team," says Anjali, who was honoured to be at Cannes where she showcased jewellery, and the models walked the red carpet in her dreamy gowns in neutral colour palettes, pastel hues and florals, some even had the royal touch of Zardosi embellishing them.

"Coming from a conservative background, very few people from the South Asian community talk about LGBTQ issues. It is wonderful to take initiative, set an example so others can come forward and join hands and encourage equality as inclusion is a state of mind," explains Anjali, who is working on a new project with Discovery.
Inspired by nature

Born in Gurugram in November 1982, Anjali's father Kesar Lal Dhingra was a bank manager and mother Neelam Dhingra, a home maker. Schooled at Model School and DAV Public in Rohtak, she went to Maharishi Dayanand University for a master's in philosophy and computer science. The 96 per cent scorer was a topper at the university.

"I am a creative person and anything that relates to creativity brings me joy, be it designing, make-up, jewellery, film making, acting, creative direction, styling or home decor. I am a certified scrum product owner and enjoy wearing multiple hats. Talent has no boundaries and there is no age to learn - one should keep evolving," says Anjali, who has styled Bollywood actors like Zeenat Aman, Somy Ali, Madhu, etc.

[caption id="attachment_16028" align="aligncenter" width="770"] Filmmaker | Inclusion Through Unity Anjali Phougat[/caption]

Her clothing line was launched in the US in 2019, and it draws inspiration from observing nature. "Nature is organic and I often use flowers and natural earth tones in my designs. India has a rich and diverse heritage and an excellent artisanship,” says the designer who believes that fashion should resonate with one's style.

A voice for the downtrodden

The Indian-American has collected funds for victims of domestic violence, created a fundraiser on social media to support NGO No More Tears. She often donates proceeds from her design line to multiple NGOs to support social causes.

She has styled victims of domestic violence and human trafficking for events. Her company has also donated a percentage of sales to multiple hunger charities.

An initiative she started with former Bollywood actress Somy Ali - "Just A Conversation" brings diverse successful individuals who have overcome immense hurdles together from the world over. Anjali and Somy’s shows shine the limelight on worthy individuals, and have had Sonu Nigam, Shakti Kapoor, Kalpana Iyer, Dabboo Ratnani, Tejaswini Kolhapure, Shilpa Shirodkar, as part of them.

"We hope to bring attention to people who have thrived by defying stigmas and stereotypes, and whose stories have not always been covered by mainstream media. We want to highlight the brave individuals who not only stand for their own beliefs, but also help others find their own voices," adds the girl who juggles many interests.
Her husband Naveen Phougat works as vice-president in banking, and they dote on their nine-year-old daughter Aarna Phougat.

[caption id="attachment_16029" align="aligncenter" width="831"] Anjali Phougat[/caption]

"Life is full of challenges and it all depends on you how you perceive them," she says, who feels that success is not comfortable, one needs to give up on comfort to make the best use of life. "Staying focused and maintaining a positive attitude helped me overcome the challenges in life," says the 39-year-old who believes that there is no greater joy than giving back to society and spreading happiness.

Her work often takes her across the world, and travelling and meeting new people has given her a window into the world to learn and help. "We learn something new every day," says Anjali, the recipient of the Swag Icon of India star mentor award in 2019. Features in Bride Vogue, Mob Journal, Milan Italy and Luxia magazine, Paris among many others is a regular feature.

“Consistency is the key to success. No one becomes successful overnight, and everyone faces different challenges during their journey. Staying positive, focused and a never-give-up attitude ensures success," she advices even as she takes great courage from Mother Teresa and her humanitarian legacy.

Even as she aspires to bust myths about India, she admits that not all impressions are positive. "International media reports on poverty in India, exploitation of women and children, rampant diseases and widespread corruption which creates unfavourable images that are hard to overcome. People do not think of India as a safe country. Despite India's dominance in the IT industry, the world does not see India as a modern economy with a competent workforce – this is sad. India is a diverse country and has the world's second largest population and beautiful ancient rituals, culture and great values," she signs off.

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