(December 2, 2024) Chef Manuel Olveira, the creative force behind Mumbai’s acclaimed restaurants La Loca Maria and La Panthera, has redefined how Spanish and European cuisines are experienced in India. After graduating from Universidad Laboral Toledo, he gained invaluable experience working in Michelin-starred kitchens and prestigious establishments worldwide, including JW Marriott Mumbai and St. Regis Saadiyat Island. In Mumbai, Manuel has brought his deep appreciation for Spanish culinary traditions to life, creating dishes that marry global sophistication with local ingredients.
Growing up in Toledo, Spain, in a family of restaurateurs, Manuel’s mother’s restaurant was his first introduction to the bustle of the kitchen. He started helping her as a teenager and watched her prepare traditional Spanish dishes. She’d let him taste the paella broth or help with tasks like making meatballs, all while explaining the importance of fresh, local ingredients and simple, bold flavours. “School, on the other hand, never really captured my interest. I knew early on that my passion lay in the kitchen, not in academics or higher education. So, as soon as I finished school, I enrolled in culinary school in Toledo. That decision felt natural—it was the first step toward turning my passion into a career and pursuing a path that truly excited me,” he recollects, in an interview with Global Indian.
Chef Manuel Olveira at La Panthera
Career Cues
Over the course of his career, he has worked as Chef De Cuisine at several illustrious hotels around the world, including St. Regis – Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi and Le Cirque and Café Belge at The Ritz-Carlton in Dubai & J.W Marriot in Mumbai. “Working in Michelin/ high-end restaurants within five-star hotels is both challenging and exhausting. You need an immense amount of grit,” Chef Olveira admits. These environments, he says, demand perfection in every way, from quality of the food and its presentation, to top-tier service. “The pace is intense and there is a constant focus on maintaining the highest standards to meet the expectations of a global clientele,” he explains. As these places have a strong emphasis on consistency, creativity, and innovation, he admits that he was constantly pushing boundaries to stay ahead, adapting to trends while remaining true to the essence of the cuisine. “You are not just preparing meals; you are crafting experiences. Attention to detail is critical, from sourcing the finest ingredients to ensuring every dish is plated with precision. Collaboration is also key, as you work closely with a diverse team of chefs and staff, each bringing their own expertise and perspectives,” he adds.
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Working as Chef de Cuisine at St. Regis – Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi, and Le Cirque and Café Belge at The Ritz-Carlton in Dubai, as well as JW Marriott in Mumbai, was an incredible journey that shaped him as a chef. “These kitchens brought together teams from all over the world, and leading such diverse groups taught me the importance of adaptability, collaboration, and cultural appreciation. Each chef brought unique techniques and perspectives from their home countries, creating a melting pot of ideas and experiences. These roles not only strengthened my leadership skills but also deepened my understanding of how food can connect people across cultures,” he says.
India Calling
After working in some of the finest kitchens and renowned Spanish Chefs such as Sergi Arola, Pepe Rodriguez and Paco Perez,he wanted to bring something personal to Mumbai’s food scene with dishes that reflected his journey and his love for simple, bold flavours. The result was La Loca Maria focuses on modern Spanish cuisine, while La Panthera offers a fresh take on European dining in a lively, welcoming atmosphere. “A big part of this dream has been my wife, Mickee Tuljapurkar, whose vision and creativity have shaped both our restaurants. Together, we have created spaces that are extensions of ourselves and a place where guests can enjoy great food and drinks with beautiful ambiance and friendly service,” he adds.
Over the past decade living in Mumbai, he has witnessed a shift in the palate of Indian diners. There is a greater openness to global cuisines, with dishes being served in their more authentic forms, rather than being overly adapted to local tastes. “The restaurant scene in India is rapidly evolving, with a growing number of concept-driven, chef-owned establishments that focus on quality and innovation. Chefs now have the freedom to create dishes they are truly passionate about, offering diners a more authentic and personalized experience,” he says.
Staying Inspired
Manuel Olveira says that for him inspiration comes from many places including his culinary journey across different countries, the ingredients he works with, and the people he meets along the way. “Ultimately, it’s the passion for my work and the desire to keep growing, learning, and sharing that keeps me going. What makes India’s dining scene particularly exciting is its incredible diversity; each region brings its own unique culinary influences, opening endless possibilities for creativity and a rich interplay of flavours,” he explains. Likewise, developing new dishes and innovating in the kitchen is always an exciting process for him. “We look at what produce is in season to bring the freshest flavours to our table. We have brainstorming sessions with our team. We draw inspiration from our travels, dining experiences, culinary books, and even casual conversations. We’re continuously exploring new flavour combinations and techniques keeps our menu fresh and exciting,” he says.
His culinary style leans towards a full-on sensory experience that feels seriously special. “Food that really connects and stays with you long after you leave. Anybody who has ever set foot in Spain knows that it is home to the most amazing produce, countless specialties, and cooking techniques. I infuse this classic culinary heritage using local produce into creating Spanish/ European dishes that are modern, elegantly plated and develop simple, robust flavours that are a delight to taste. I believe food should taste, smell, and look equally exceptional,” he adds. Outside work, cycling gives him peace. “After a hectic day at the restaurant, when I get on the bike, I forget everything else. I also make sure to go for one ski trip every year. The focus and discipline required is a lot like cooking in the kitchen and the connection with the mind and inner self becomes stronger,” he concludes.
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