(February 16, 2025) 2025 started on a high note for fashion as India’s biggest luxury brand, Sabyasachi, celebrated its 25th anniversary in style. The evening unfolded with grandeur, transforming a space into a living homage to Indian artistry, craftsmanship, cultural storytelling and heritage. From opulent lehengas adorned with intricate embroidery to meticulously crafted sarees in rich jewel tones, every piece celebrated India’s unparalleled craftsmanship. It wasn’t just a celebration of a brand but a tribute to a journey — one that began in Kolkata 25 years ago and has since made its mark on the global stage. “Sabyasachi no longer belongs to me; it is an aspiration that belongs to India. Our singular goal is to restore and preserve the heritage arts and crafts of India to their full glory,” said the 50-year-old designer in an interview.
But behind the spectacle lies a story of grit and imagination, one that began in a small town in West Bengal.
Sabyasachi
The Small-Town Boy Who Dreamed in Colour
Before he dressed royalty and Hollywood’s elite, he was just a boy in Kakinara, a small industrial town 50 km from Kolkata, surrounded by forests and simplicity. Visiting Kolkata on weekends felt like visiting New York or Paris for this small town boy. The bustling metropolis — with its towering buildings, imported cars, and crowds — felt like a different world altogether. These visits left a lasting impression on him, shaping his dreams. “What we lacked in terms of facilities and money, we made up with imagination,” said Sabyasachi, whose family had to struggle financially after his father, who worked in wool-combing mill, lost his job. A turning point in his life, it shaped his character and creative vision.
From ‘Tailor’ to Tastemaker
His family, like many middle-class households, wanted him to pursue a secure profession like medicine. But Sabyasachi had other plans. “I either wanted to do hotel management and become a chef or pursue fashion.” By that time, he had developed a sense of style and understood fashion, moreover, the “NIFT education was heavily subsidised”, which led him on the path to fashion. However, back then, Kolkata didn’t even have a fashion column, so Sabyasachi had no idea what future awaited him. “There was no business or proof of concept that I could tell my father. My grandmother was telling my parents and neighbours that despite good education I wanted to become a tailor,” the Global Indian added. “They didn’t understand that a business of fashion was possible.”
He entered the world of fashion with nothing but instinct, curiosity, and a deep respect for heritage.
Sabyasachi’s early years in fashion were anything but glamorous. As a student, he didn’t have the resources to keep up with industry standards. “I owned a single pair of chinos, which we called ‘makhani jeans,’ and that was the most stylish thing in my wardrobe,” he admits.
Starting his own label in 1999 with a loan of ₹20,000 from his sister was equally daunting. Catering to an affluent clientele felt like an impossible task for someone who had never experienced that lifestyle. “How do you design for privilege when you’ve never lived it?” he reflects. Yet, Sabyasachi’s adaptability and keen observational skills helped him navigate these challenges.
The Big Break That Changed Everything
His big break came at India Fashion Week in 2002. With just two suitcases of clothes and no assistants, he set up a modest stall, right opposite to Rohit Bal’s stall. To his surprise, his designs caught the attention of the media, making headlines overnight. The rise was meteoric and he didn’t have time to process it. “Everything changed so quickly,” he says. However, the sudden fame came with its own pressures. His second collection, influenced by external expectations, was his most disappointing. But this setback taught him an invaluable lesson: to stay true to his vision. His third collection took him to London where his designs were featured in Browns in 2004, making him the first Indian brand to have a window in Browns.
The Man Who Brought India to the World
In the years that followed, Sabyasachi’s designs became more than fashion—they became cultural artifacts. He kept blending tradition with contemporary sensibilities, and making heads turn in Singapore, Malaysia, the US and UK with his collections. From having his designs sold at Browns and Selfridges in London to presenting his work at Oxford University’s annual black tie charity dinner fashion show, Sabyasachi took Indian designs to the world, as he calls India his muse. From handwoven Banarasi silks to Pashmina embroidery, he brought dying crafts back to life, giving Indian artisans the platform they had long been denied.
Sabyasachi with Oprah Winfrey
“You’ll be a blind man to step out in India and not find inspiration in every nook and corner. My mind is like a camcorder that keeps recording things and it comes up when I need it.”
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Whether it’s a vibrant colour combination spotted in a small Kolkata restaurant or a traditional weaving technique, Sabyasachi’s work reflects the stories, textures, and colours of India. Every stitch, weave, and motif in his collections tells a story of artisans who have carried their skills through generations. From handwoven Banarasi silks to delicate Pashmina embroidery and the rich textures of kanjeevaram, his work is a revival of techniques that were once at risk of fading into history. He doesn’t just create garments — he preserves heritage. “One of the things that makes India so unique in the global platform is our heritage of crafts. For me, the relationship between a business and a craftsman begins with making sure that the consumer is completely engaged.”
But what made Sabyasachi different was not just his deep love for heritage—it was his unwavering belief that Indian fashion deserved a place on the global luxury stage.
Over the past 25 years, Sabyasachi has redefined the perception of Indian fashion on the global stage. His designs have been worn by international celebrities like Oprah Winfrey and Reese Witherspoon, as well as royalty from the Middle East and Europe. His brand was one of the first Indian labels to retail at iconic stores like Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue in New York. Collaborations with international names like Christian Louboutin and H&M have further expanded his reach, proving that Indian craftsmanship has a place in contemporary luxury markets.
“When I do a collaboration, I have only one thumb rule. I am an Indian designer, I am proud of my country, and my Indian customers in India and worldwide have given me a tremendous opportunity and a very important platform to tell the India story to a world that does not probably understand India very well. I want to use that platform responsibly and wisely. So if the collaborator is not interested in telling the India story, I’m not interested in the partnership,” said the man who has built a ₹500 crore fashion empire. In 2021, Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail Limited acquired a 51% stake in his label for ₹398 crore, cementing its position as a powerhouse in luxury fashion. With a growing presence in fine jewelry, accessories, and global retail, Sabyasachi has expanded far beyond bridal couture, redefining Indian fashion on the world stage.
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But his work goes beyond designing for runways and red carpets. Sabyasachi has been instrumental in preserving India’s dying crafts, ensuring that traditional artisanship remains relevant.
25 Years of Sabyasachi
The 25th-anniversary celebration was a culmination of everything Sabyasachi stands for. The collection showcased over 150 ensembles, each reflecting the brand’s journey and philosophy.
The event wasn’t just about fashion—it was about storytelling. Every piece on the runway celebrated India’s heritage, from intricate embroidery to handwoven fabrics. It was a reminder of how far the brand has come and how deeply it remains connected to its roots.
Looking Ahead: The Next Chapter
After opening a flagship store in New York, Sabyasachi is expanding into new verticals, including beauty, home décor, and hospitality. “India has so much to offer the world,” he says. “The only thing stopping us is our belief in ourselves.” Confident yet grounded, Sabyasachi is determined to shift the narrative, ensuring that Indian luxury becomes a global standard.
Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s 25-year journey isn’t just about fashion—it’s about dreams, perseverance, and an unshakable love for his roots. From a small town in West Bengal to the grandest runways in the world, his story is one of determination and devotion to the craft. He has built more than a brand; he has revived traditions, given artisans a platform, and redefined what Indian luxury means. Through every weave, every stitch, and every design, he tells a story of heritage, pride, and timeless beauty. As he continues to push boundaries, Sabyasachi isn’t just making clothes—he’s keeping the soul of India alive, one masterpiece at a time.
As he once said, “To be relevant, you have to be rooted. The deeper your roots, the stronger your voice.”
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The man I knew…