(March 7, 2025) The rich aroma of slow-cooked biryani filled the air as Darjeeling Express, a renowned Indian restaurant in London, welcomed two distinguished guests. Recently, King Charles III and Queen Camilla visited the restaurant ahead of Ramadan, immersing themselves in the traditions of the holy month. The King, captivated by the fragrance of the Biryani, even asked with a smile, “Can I take some?” While he left, Asma Khan promptly packed some Biryani which went back with him to the Royal palace.
More than just a formal engagement, this visit was an opportunity for the King and Queen to connect with Asma Khan, the British-Indian chef behind Darjeeling Express, and to recognize her contributions to food, culture, and community. Asma has long been committed to using her platform for a greater cause. Every Ramadan, 100 percent of her restaurant’s profits are donated to hunger charities, a tradition she upholds as part of her dedication to giving back.
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The King and Queen packed dates and biryani
King Charles III and Queen Camilla joined Khan and her all-female kitchen staff in packing dates and biryani meals, which were later donated to local hospitals, a gesture reflecting the essence of Ramadan which is all about sharing and generosity.
As King Charles assisted in packing the dates, his quick hands did not go unnoticed. Asma playfully remarked that he could take up a job at the restaurant every year. With his signature wit, the King responded, “I may be past my sell-by date,” drawing laughter from those around him. This lighthearted exchange accentuated the warmth and camaraderie of the moment, making it more than just a royal visit. It was an experience of cultural exchange and bonding through food. The chef and restaurateur, named in TIME magazine’s 100 Most Influential People in 2024, made the most of the King’s visit to her restaurant, even gifting him a copy of her latest book, Monsoon.
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The culinary pioneer with a mission
For Asma Khan, this visit was another milestone in her remarkable journey from a young immigrant in the UK to an internationally recognized chef and restaurateur. Born in Kolkata in 1969, Asma moved to England in 1991 following her marriage. Though she initially pursued law, earning a PhD in British Constitutional Law from King’s College London, her true calling lay elsewhere.
Cooking had always been a source of joy and comfort, and it was at her home that she first began sharing her culinary heritage. Hosting supper clubs in her London residence, she recreated the flavours of Kolkata Mughlai and Hyderabadi cuisine, attracting an ever-growing circle of food lovers. What started as an intimate gathering soon became a phenomenon, paving the way for her restaurant, Darjeeling Express, which officially opened in 2017.
Unlike most high-profile chefs, Asma had no formal culinary training. Her kitchen, however, had something even more powerful – a sense of community and empowerment. Darjeeling Express is staffed entirely by South Asian immigrant women, many of whom had no prior professional kitchen experience. Asma’s approach challenged the traditionally male-dominated restaurant industry, giving these women an opportunity to earn, learn, and thrive.
Asma Khan
The evolution of Darjeeling Express
From its modest beginnings as a supper club, Darjeeling Express has become one of London’s most sought-after dining destinations. Nestled in Soho’s Kingly Court, the restaurant draws food lovers from around the world, including celebrities like Nigella Lawson, Keira Knightley, Anil Kapoor, Paul Rudd, and Dan Levy. Its menu celebrates authentic Indian home cooking, with dishes such as pani puri, prawn malai curry, Hyderabadi thali, chicken kathi rolls, and the beloved Kolkata biryani.
The restaurant’s name itself is a nod to Asma’s childhood memories. The toy train rides from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling were a cherished part of her upbringing, and she wanted her restaurant to reflect that sense of nostalgia, warmth, and cultural richness.
Despite the success, the journey was far from easy. In the early days, when Asma was testing the waters with pop-ups in London pubs, she faced skepticism from some patrons. On one occasion, a customer bluntly told her, “I don’t like your curry, love.” But Asma remained undeterred, believing in the quality of her food and the authenticity of her flavours.
Asma Khan with celebrity chef Padma Lakshmi
“I have gone through a lot,” she once said while advising young chefs and hospitality professionals on resilience, adaptability, and perseverance. “Hold on to your dreams, even in the storm. My mother always used to say, ‘The bamboo will bend, but it will not break.’ You need to be that.”
Asma’s breakthrough came when Fay Maschler, a respected food critic from the Evening Standard, dined at her pop-up and gave it a glowing review. Overnight, queues formed outside, and demand skyrocketed. The momentum led Asma to take the plunge and open Darjeeling Express as a full-fledged restaurant.
Breaking barriers on the global stage
Asma Khan’s impact extends far beyond her kitchen. In 2019, she became the first British chef to be featured on Netflix’s Chef’s Table, a platform that catapulted her and her restaurant into international fame. She used the opportunity to spotlight home cooks and women in the culinary industry, reinforcing her mission to challenge the gender imbalance in professional kitchens.
Her literary contributions have also been well received. Her first cookbook, Asma’s Indian Kitchen, won the Gourmand World Cookbook Award for Best Indian Cuisine Book in the UK. In 2022, she released Ammu, a heartfelt tribute to her mother, bringing traditional family recipes to a global audience.
Asma Khan gifted her book to King Charles III
With the release of her third book Monsoon, she continues to celebrate food as a bridge between cultures and generations. “This book is all about teaching you the art of layering Indian flavours, bringing out depth, balance, and harmony in every dish, using the six Ayurvedic tastes as a compass to help you navigate,” she explained sharing the first look of the nourishing dishes from the book with her fans.
Empowering women, one meal at a time
At the core of Asma’s work is her commitment to uplifting women. The all-female brigade at Darjeeling Express is not just about cooking, it is about rewriting narratives. Many of the women who work in her kitchen came from backgrounds where they were often overlooked, their skills confined to household roles. By bringing them into a professional space, Asma has provided them with financial independence, confidence, and a sense of purpose.
Her philosophy is simple – food is more than sustenance; it is a means of connection, healing, and empowerment. Through her restaurant, books, and advocacy, she amplifies the voices of women who have long remained in the shadows, celebrating them as the true custodians of culinary traditions.
More than a chef, Asma has matured into a force for change, dedicated to making a difference. Now, she’s channeling that passion into the ‘Stop Hunger’ campaign, joining forces with Sodexo, to take on food insecurity head-on. “Legacy isn’t built on fame and fortune; it’s about clearing a path for our future leaders,” believes the chef and changemaker.
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A celebration of cultural integration
The visit from King Charles III and Queen Camilla to Darjeeling Express was more than just a royal outing; it was a powerful acknowledgment of the UK’s rich multicultural landscape. Food has always been a universal language, and through their participation in preparing Ramadan meals, the royal couple demonstrated the importance of embracing and respecting diverse traditions.
In a time when cultural integration is more relevant than ever, Asma Khan’s story stands as an inspiring example of how heritage and modernity can coexist harmoniously.
As Asma continues her journey, she remains dedicated to her mission of making food a force for change. Whether through her restaurant, books, or advocacy, she constantly seeks ways to elevate women and preserve culinary traditions. “Eat well and make a positive impact,” is her winning mantra.
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