Chef Gyanendra Gupta: Creating desi food with a twist at Raas, Delaware

Restaurant: Raas
Founder: Chef Gyanendra Gupta
Cuisine: Blend of Indian, vegan, Pan Asian and original creations
Service options: Reservations required · Serves vegan dishes
Address: 210 Savannah Rd, Lewes, DE 19958, USA

(May 12, 2024) Chef Gyanendra Gupta’s restaurant Raas in Delaware is a happy blend of Indian, vegan, Pan Asian and original creations. His purpose is to introduce real Indian flavours to Americans, who think Indian food is mainly curry, and dismiss it as too spicy. Chef GG serves up creatively thought out delicacies like Tandoori stuff potato, Asian spiced salmon cake, biryani and Rigatoni Aglio Olio with Chicken Tikka Masala. 

Chef Gyanendra Gupta, the fourth sibling among five brothers, grew up helping his mother prepare food for family dinners. He starts the interview with Global Indian by saying, “I was a mama’s boy. She would dictate a paragraph for me to write while cooking; and when she’d check my spelling, I’d check on what was being cooked. None of my brothers had any interest in cooking but since I did, she took me to the markets, and I spent most of my time at home with her in the kitchen. I remember getting excited seeing the roti puff up on the gas burner as a child.”

Chef Gyanendra Gupta, founder, Raas

Indian Roots, Overseas Experience

Chef GG as he is known, grew up in Lucknow, and would even cook for his mother so she could eat with them instead of eating last. All this time spent with her led to him dropping out of medicine at the last minute and joining the Indian Institute of Hotel Management in Lucknow, which was just five minutes away from his home. This was in 1993 and during his third year, he got a job at the Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai as a hotel management trainee. He recalls, “I worked there till 1998, after which I got a chance to work in the Caribbean islands with a London-based hotel group. They had hotels in Granada, St Lucia and many other islands. I used to train people there and on other islands also.”

In 2007, he moved back to India and joined the Landmark Group, a Dubai-based company that was trying to set up hospitality operations in India. He joined as Brand Chef and developed several brands and kiosks for the group in different parts of India including Bengaluru, Hyderabad, Mumbai and Pune, to name a few. One of the restaurants in our franchise was Yellow Chilli by Chef Sanjeev Kapoor and Chef Harpal Singh.”

This assignment gave Chef GG the background he needed in the backend logistics of running a business, which would later help him with Raas, the fine-dining Indian and Pan-Asian restaurant he now owns and runs in Lewes, Delaware. He says, “We had a 5500 sqft kitchen for R & D and we set up the first franchise for Gloria Jeans, an Australian coffee shop chain in Bandra, Mumbai. Though I quit after a year, it had been a great learning journey, where I understood the economics behind the business.”

Dream jobs galore

Other assignments at the Royal Orchid in Bengaluru followed and he was back with the Taj group for their launch of the brand Vivanta for the Taj in Goa. He says, “Though they had earlier launched Vivanta in Bengaluru, the Goa branch was the real launch and it was quite successful.” From there, in 2011, he moved to the Jai Mahal Palace in Jaipur, where he infused new energy into that property. Chef GG created an international menu, launched Frangipani, a Mediterranean restaurant along with Giardino, an Italian restaurant by the poolside, and elevated the culinary level by training his team at Jai Mahal Palace.”

“I believe every trainee has to be as good as you; and on every second Saturday of the month, anyone and everyone in the team had the liberty to prepare any dish they wanted. It was a wonderful exercise because even those who were not in the kitchen, would participate and make so many different items.” This property and the nearby Jaigarh Fort were the locations for several high-profile destination weddings, where the food was overseen by Chef GG.

Raas is located in a 100-year-old heritage home in Lewes, Delaware

Then, in 2015, he represented India at the Mid-Atlantic Wine and Food Festival where 24 chefs and 70 winemakers from all over the world participated. He says, “I got a lot of exposure and met with a friend who was a medical student when I was a chef in the Caribbean at Dupont Hotel, Wilmington, USA. He showed me around the place, and I loved Lewes, which is a historic city with beautiful beaches in Delaware, the first State. He suggested I should open a restaurant here as no restaurants were serving Indian cuisine in that area, so the seed was planted in my brain at that time.”

In April 2015, Chef GG moved back to Taj Holiday Village in Goa but during a vacation in 2017, he went back to Delaware. He says, “That is when we decided to open a restaurant there and bought this historic building. It is a Queen Anne-style Victorian structure built in 1899 and we launched our first restaurant called Raas here.”

Dance of destiny

The website for Raas describes the name as a traditional folk dance from Gujarat in India – the garba and dandiya raas of the Gujaratis performed during weddings and Navratri. He has also added a medical acronym for Raas which is the renin-angiotensin-aldosterone system, the hormonal system responsible for blood pressure, fluid, and electrolyte balance in our bodies. Chef GG and his team renovated the building and launched in August 2019.

The restaurant, which was listed among the 100 best restaurants by Yelp and published in Forbes magazine, was also featured in the Wall Street Journal and has won many awards.

 

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He says he wanted to introduce Americans to Indian flavours as many of them consider Indian food as spicy and that it comprises of curry only. “We plated our food interestingly to intrigue their palates.”

Unlike other Indian restaurants of its kind, Raas has at least 17-18 starters and 28 main course dishes each on the menu. Most places list half that number of options. Chef GG runs a tight ship where he is on the floor meeting guests, explaining the food philosophy of his creations, and reiterating that all the calls to the restaurant are always forwarded to him. He says, “Within a few months of opening, Covid had us shut down, but we started takeout options, which kept us going.” Lewes in Delaware has a lot of folks who own second homes here as the city is barely three hours away from Washington DC and New York. Several of the city folk had never had Indian food before so it was a challenge to get them to try something new. “But I believe in Atithi Devo Bhava – the guest is god – so I interact with each guest and help them decide what they’d like to eat,” he adds.

Raas has some interesting options on offer in the fairly extensive vegetarian and non-vegetarian menu. They also have a full vegan and gluten-free menu which is in demand with locals. The Dal Lalla Mussa, Chef GG’s version of Dal Makhni is a popular favourite. As are the Saag Paneer Kofta, Lamb Shank Rogan Josh, Malai Chicken tikka Arancini, and Duck Breast Korma. He has dishes which are not on the menu but could be prepared on the guest’s request and the spice levels, even in the Pan Asian dishes are mild. He adds that 90 percent of his menu is gluten-free with the Chilli Olive Naan and Missi Roti as fast-moving items.

 

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Now that Raas is an established brand in Delaware, Chef GG is currently thinking of opening a branch in other parts of the US and in the Caribbean islands where he has spent a fair amount of time in the past.

As for global food trends, Chef GG believes that with current lifestyles being such that people eat out a lot, and the US being the multicultural hotpot that it is, people are open to trying food from different cuisines.

While travelling, Chef GG likes to eat at:

• Cultured Pearls, a Japanese restaurant in Rehoboth, Delaware: Sushi Boat
• Mediterranean Aroma, Rehoboth: Kebab Platter and Falafel
• Touch of Italy, Rehoboth: Antipasti platter
• Rasika, Washington DC: I love their lamb chops
• The Capital Grille, Philadelphia: They do lovely steaks
• Roadside Caribbean Jerk Barbeque on St. Lucian Island is his favourite among all of them

Follow Chef Gyanendra Gupta and Raas on LinkedIn and Instagram