(July 10, 2024) When Russian rockstar Yegor Svysokikhgor visited the Kashi Vishwanath temple in Varanasi for the first time during ‘Mahashivaratri’ in 2019 — he could feel the vibes and the energy that engulfed the world’s most ancient city. It introduced him to the power of Lord Shiva, with whom his connect was instant.
It’s that deep sense of devotion which keeps bringing Yegor and his friend Alesya Izlesa back to Varanasi, again and again — making the holy city by the river, a home away from home.
As Prime Minister Narendra Modi wound up his two-day visit to Russia, with a warm hug with President Vladimir Putin — among the keen watchers of the bonhomie between the two leaders were Yegor and Alesya, who make the bond between India and Russia much stronger in their own ways.
Their connection with India runs deep, from their love of samosas and chai, the time they spent in Varanasi’s Assi Ghat, to joining the first wave of foreigners to trek all the way up to the Amarnath shrine in Jammu and Kashmir.
Varanasi connect
“Each time we visit the Kashi Vishwanath temple, we feel the powerful energy of Shiva,” says Yegor, greeting with the traditional ‘namaste’ as he connects with Global Indian.
After his brief visit in 2019, just days before PM Modi laid the foundation stone for the grand Kashi Vishwanath temple, Yegor returned to Varanasi with Alesya in 2023 and again in 2024. “When Shiva calls, we come (to Varanasi),” smiles Yegor, while his friend nods in agreement. Both are members of Russian rock band Ciolkowska.
While 60,000 Indian tourists visited Russia in 2023, the figures, more or less have been the same, if not more when it comes to Russians visiting India for tourism. According to Indian embassy, there are about 14,000 Indians living in Russia.
Love for ghats
Hailing from St Petersburg, Yegor and Alesya are in awe of the various ghats in the temple town, especially the Assi ghat and Tulsi ghats, where they have given several live performances. If not, they would simply sit for hours at the ghat gazing at the shimmering waters of the holy Ganga.
The moment Yegor’s fingers begin to glide over his acoustic guitar, it would captivate the random audience almost instantly. Alesya only complimented him with a ukulele.
Yegor’s skilful renditions of Pink Floyd’s Wish You Were Here and Nirvana’s Come As You Are or the other slow-tempo covers of Bob Marley, Deep Purple, Bob Dylan and the Beatles used to be a hit with the locals, even those who knew nothing about music.
“We have our original Russian songs but the language is not understood in India. Many people ask me to sing Bollywood songs or Punjabi songs, I quickly pass on the microphone to them and play along on the guitar if someone wanted to sing,” smiles Yegor, who would keep a donation box at the venue for anyone interested in donating money voluntarily.
Video in Russian
Besides entertaining people, the Russian couple ended up making a video highlighting all the important places, including temples and ghats of Varanasi, in Russian language, which was a first.
This video comes handy for many Russians who intend to undertake a visit to the holy city, which is also called Kashi and Banaras. “When we came to Varanasi, we searched for information about Ghats in Varanasi in Russian language but could not find one. We decided to do something about this. We took the help of a local and made a video about Varanasi in Russian,” informs Yegor.
Friendly people
Yegor says that during each of his visit, he met good people in Varanasi. “People in Kashi (Varanasi) are friendly and kind. They understand, feel and love music. They are smart and enlightened. Overall, people in Varanasi are very different when compared to other places,” says the repeat visitor to the holy city.
Yegor, who has been visiting the holy city since 2019, has witnessed the city’s fast-paced growth under PM Modi, who has been elected for the third consecutive time from his constituency of Varanasi this year.
From improved infrastructure to cleanliness, renovation and expansion of Kashi Vishwanath temple and restoration works of the ghats — Varanasi has come a long way, making it a global destination.
According to the tourism department, about 53.8 million tourists visited Varanasi in 2023, of which 13,700 were foreign guests, mostly from the US, UK and Europe.
Visit to Amarnath
During his India visit in 2023, Yegor and Alesya undertook the Amarnath Yatra as well. “It was very difficult to get permission for the Amarnath Yatra. We spent more time and power for this. I spoke to the local police chief and convinced him why it’s important for us to visit Amarnath. Finally, he allowed us,” recalls the musician. He says the power and energy he felt in Amarnath was similar to Kashi Vishwanath.
Besides Amarnath, the musical duo visited Delhi, Goa, Tamil Nadu, Mumbai, Dharamsala, Shimla in Himachal Pradesh besides Punjab, Ladakh, Bodh Gaya, Puri in Odisha among other places.
Modi’s Varanasi
Prior to 2014, the year Narendra Modi stormed to power, Varanasi with 3.7 million population was chaotic, with crumbling infrastructure. Its congested roads filled with filth, its poor upkeep of touristy places, its haphazard traffic and little visible beautification or developmental works, made for an unpleasant experience for tourists.
All of that started to change once Modi, also an ardent Lord Shiva devotee, took over and kept a close watch on all the developmental activities in his constituency.
Prior to the revamp of Kashi Vishwanath corridor, the temple was limited to 3,000 square feet. Once completed and inaugurated by Modi in December 2021, the temple spread over by about 5 lakh feet, attracting tourists. The temple has been destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries.
Modi in Moscow
Modi’s visit to Moscow marks his first trip to Russia since the country’s invasion of Ukraine in February 2022.
During the 22nd India-Russia Annual Summit, Modi and Putin assessed and exchanged a wide spectrum of multifaceted relations between the two nations and exchange perspectives on current regional and global issues of mutual concern.
Ciolkowska
Ciolkowska was born in 2012 with four band members led by Yegor. Alesya joined the band a year later on ukulele. They released their debut EP “Pistolet Buduschego” on Russian Association of Independent Genres (R.A.I.G.) records in 2015.
The album was well received, especially during the Europe tour. In 2016, the band released its second album “AvtomatProshlogo” and played main stage at Moscow and SPB psych fests. In 2018, they toured with Transnadeznost in Europe. Two years later, they released the third album “Psychedelia.” Yegor informs the band will be releasing their fourth album soon.
“My dream was to perform on the streets and clubs of Indian cities. Varanasi allowed me to fulfill it,” says the talented musician.