Recap 2023: The Global Indian stars of the culinary world

(December 27, 2023) As the curtains on 2023 draw, it’s clear that Indian chefs, foodpreneurs, and winemakers have made a big impact on global food. They haven’t just embraced the delicious flavors of India but have cleverly mixed them into international cuisine, leaving a lasting impression on the food world. By combining traditional authenticity with new and creative ideas, these experts have taken Indian food to new heights, breaking away from old stereotypes and gaining recognition worldwide. With Michelin stars awarded to their restaurants, these trailblazers have skillfully navigated the worlds of food and wine, changing what we expect and delighting taste buds all over the globe. Their role has been crucial in reshaping how we see global gastronomy.

As 2023 comes to an end, Global Indian puts a spotlight on the newsmakers in the culinary world.

Chef Garima Arora

This December saw Indian chef Garima Arora bag her second Michelin star for her restaurant Gaa, making her the first Indian woman chef to achieve the feat. The news came the year that she embraced parenthood after the birth of her son Aham, and has been balancing work and motherhood perfectly. Talking to Global Indian, she said, “I am absolutely thrilled and excited. But I have to say, this is a great validation to my team and the dedication that they have put in. I’ve been balancing parenthood and running the business. We wouldn’t have been able to do this without my stellar team. I can’t take all the credit. It all belongs to my team.”

Launched in 2017, Gaa in Bangkok is a progressive Indian fine-dining restaurant that explores the flavours of India using East Asian ingredients. Garima is on a mission to rediscover and reform the narrative on Indian food with her restaurant. “We want to change the perception of people towards Indian food, which is way beyond curries and naan. You can spend a lifetime in India and not finish the entire cuisine. This is why it’s unique to us and also why we have to explore more and take it to the world,” she added.

Chef Meherwan Irani

Chef Meherwan Irani’s Chai Pani, located in Asheville, North Carolina, achieved culinary acclaim when it was named Outstanding Restaurant by the prestigious James Beard Foundation, often considered the ‘Oscars’ of the culinary world. Originally from Ahmednagar, Maharashtra, Chef Irani ventured into the restaurant business in the Deep South of the United States, offering a menu featuring Indian street food delights such as pani puri, sev puri, dahi puri, vada pav, misal, and bhajiyas. The recognition by the James Beard Foundation was particularly significant for Irani. “To win the award for the Outstanding Restaurant, where the word Indian doesn’t even figure, was a shock. It means a lot because I got nominated five times for Best Chef but never got to the finals,” he told Global Indian.

Born out of a desire to escape the hectic pace and high costs of life in San Francisco, Chef Meherwan Irani and his wife Molly relocated to Asheville in 2009, bringing a transformative change to their lives and the local culinary scene. Drawing inspiration from his upbringing in the hospitality industry and armed with a passion for Indian street food, Irani meticulously crafted the menu for Chai Pani, incorporating flavors reminiscent of Mumbai and other cities. Through focus groups with diverse patrons, including white Americans, he fine-tuned his offerings, ultimately establishing Chai Pani as a culinary gem in the heart of North Carolina and earning well-deserved recognition for his innovative approach to Indian cuisine.

Raj Patel – Wine Maker

It was the US State dinner for Prime Minister Narendra Modi at the White House in June this year that saw a lavish spread of crisped millet cakes, summer squashes, marinated millet and grilled corn kernel salad. Amongst the sumptuous buffet, stood a case of Patel Red Blend 2019 – a red wine – that grabbed attention. Owned by a Gujarati Raj Patel, a first-generation wine producer, Patel Winery was invited to serve at the White House. “It was surreal and an honour. It’s something that very few are privileged to do,” Raj told Global Indian. Started in 2007 in Napa Valley with 100 cases of a 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Patel Winery now sells 1000 cases of four wines, and is world renowned, thanks to the US State dinner. “Over the years, our wine has grown so well and received so many reviews. We are happy to have added any accolade by serving our wine at the State dinner. It’s something that not everyone gets.”

Thanks to the US State dinner, Patel Winery has found global recognition. While they export in Japan, South Korea, UK, Taiwan and New Zealand, the awareness about the wine has spread far and wide now. “For everyone who didn’t know the wine existed, now know about it, especially in India,” he added.

Chef Sujan Sarkar

It was in the fall of 2022 that Indian restaurant Indienne opened its doors for Chicagoans with a tasting menu that seamlessly blends Indian culinary artistry with the refined techniques of classic French cooking. In an instant, it became a hit, helping it bag its very first Michelin star within just fourteen months of its grand opening. The win has left Chef Sujan Sarkar proud and ecstatic. “We were expecting something but it was still a great feeling when it became official. A special moment and milestone for the team that has worked so hard,” he told Global Indian.

Chef Sujan Sarkar

Because of the rave reviews and the grand reception that Indienne got in the first months of its opening, Chef Sujan was expecting a Michelin star “before a year was up.” However, with a delayed ceremony this year, he had to wait a little. “Because of the standard we set, I definitely felt confident we would be recognised, by Michelin and by our diners,” says the Bengali Chef adding that at his restaurant one can expect a different interpretation of Indian food. “Come without expectations, you will enjoy the experience more. It will feel Indian and completely different at the same time,” said the chef who is serving Americans as well as the Indian diaspora in the US.

Chef Vijaya Kumar

Chef Vijaya Kumar’s career trajectory seems like a culinary fairy tale. A diploma in hotel management in Trichy, he landed in Chennai to join Taj Connemara. But it was his switch to California that changed the trajectory of his career. Keen to cook authentic Indian food, he launched Semma in 2021 in New York, a restaurant that has earned him two Michelin stars in two years. “So thrilled, humbled, honoured, blessed, thankful and grateful that we retained our one Michelin star for second year in a row,” he said after receiving a Michelin star this year.

With a menu that’s inherently South Indian, he has replicated his grandmother’s recipes at Semma. “When I first moved to the US, my friends and family would make fun of me saying I am still making idlis and dosas. But I believe we Indians underestimate our own cuisine; I wanted to break this barrier and misconception that South Indian food is only idlis and dosas. It is so much more; even regions within each state cook food differently,” he told Global Indian. But it’s the same flavour that has put Chef Vijaya Kumar on the global map.

Bhupender Nath

Bhupender Nath, originally from Bihar, India, transitioned from a successful fisheries business in Nigeria to fulfilling his dream of opening a restaurant. This journey led him to establish seven unique dining establishments, including the acclaimed Tresind in Dubai and Mumbai, both earning Michelin stars. Launching Tresind Dubai in 2014, Nath introduced a modern twist to traditional Indian cuisine. “We were presenting modernist Indian cuisine, merging local flavours with global culinary techniques,” Nath tells Global Indian.

Bhupender Nath, founder Passion F&B, is the brain behind Michelin-starred TresInd, Dubai and TresInd, Mumbai.

Under his Passion F&B brand, Nath’s establishments such as Tresind Studio and Carnival by Tresind, each offer distinct dining experiences. Tresind Studio stands out with innovative dishes like Khandvi Gelato and Dhokla Gazpacho, earning Michelin stars in consecutive years (2022 and 2023) and ranking 11th in the world’s 50 best restaurants. Avatara, renowned for its vegetarian cuisine, garnered a Michelin star, affirming its status as Dubai’s top vegetarian fine dining venue. Aamara, celebrating the Silk Route’s culinary heritage, was recently listed in the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand. Nath’s approach to cuisine breaks traditional moulds, blending Indian flavours with a global outlook. He emphasizes team empowerment, particularly notable in his collaboration with Corporate Head Chef Himanshu Saini, ensuring innovation and quality across all his restaurants.

Surrinder Kumar

Surrinder Kumar, a master blender, has notably placed Indian single malts on the global map. His Indri whisky recently clinched the ‘Best in Show, Double Gold’ at the 2023 Whiskies of the World Awards. Kumar remarks, “Making a blend is not a one-day job, one has to plan everything – from the grains, to the water, and casks,” he told Global Indian.

Originating from Jammu and Kashmir, his career path shifted from civil services to whisky blending. His significant learning experience at the Central Food Technological Research Institute honed his blending skills. At Amrut Distilleries Ltd, he contributed to its rise to international fame. Kumar’s expertise is exemplified in the creation of Indri, a triple-cask single malt. This whisky undergoes maturation in ex-bourbon, ex-French wine, and PX Sherry casks, crafting a unique flavor profile. Kumar’s approach to whisky making combines meticulous selection of ingredients and casks, ensuring a harmonious balance in flavours, establishing his spot as one of the world’s top master blenders.