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A slice of home in Durban: Living in South Africa’s Little India

Contributed By: R Pratibha
Durban, South Africa, Zip Code: 4072

I never imagined that moving across continents would feel like coming home. Durban, a bustling city on South Africa’s eastern coast, boasts a significant Indian population—so much so that it is often referred to as “Little India.” When I first arrived, I didn’t know how much this city would remind me of India, despite the geographical distance. The sounds, smells, and flavors of Durban made me feel as if I hadn’t left home at all.

Born and raised in a small town in India, I was accustomed to the sights and sounds of a vibrant community. I grew up with the scent of freshly made dosas in the morning, the hustle of crowded streets, and the intricate rhythms of daily life. Moving to South Africa was both exciting and daunting; I wasn’t sure what to expect. Would I find a piece of home here, or would everything be unfamiliar?

Dairy Beach | Durban

Dairy Beach

Durban immediately enveloped me with its warmth—both the climate and its people. The city is renowned for its long, sunny days, but what truly made it stand out was the incredible Indian culture that has been woven into the fabric of its society. This isn’t just a city where Indians live; it’s a place where Indian traditions thrive and continue to shape the identity of the community.

One of the first places I visited after arriving in Durban was the Victoria Street Market, a treasure trove for anyone looking for a taste of India. As soon as I stepped in, I was greeted by the familiar scents of incense, spices, and dried chilies. Rows of shops sold everything from turmeric to masalas, as well as vibrant sarees and intricate jewelry. It felt as if I had walked straight into a bustling Indian bazaar. Many of the vendors were third- or fourth-generation Indians, and they spoke a mix of Zulu, English, and bits of Hindi, which gave me an instant connection to my heritage.

Victoria Market | Durban

Victoria Market

The food in Durban, though influenced by local South African culture, retains a strong Indian flavor. One dish that became a staple in my new life is the iconic “bunny chow.” Despite the name, it has nothing to do with rabbits. It’s a hearty meal made by hollowing out a loaf of bread and filling it with spicy curry, usually lamb or chicken, though vegetarian versions are also available. The dish was created by Indian laborers who came to South Africa to work on sugar plantations. They needed a quick and portable meal, and thus, the bunny chow was born. Every bite reminds me of home—rich, flavorful, and full of spice.

On weekends, I often visit the beachfront promenade along the Golden Mile. This stretch of the coast is dotted with food stalls, some selling Indian snacks like samosas and bhajis. It’s the perfect place to grab a bite while watching the waves crash along the shore. I often sit there, savoring the fusion of cultures that Durban offers. The air smells like the sea, mixed with the fragrance of fried spices, and it feels like a little slice of heaven.

Bunny Chow

Bunny Chow

Durban’s Indian temples also offer a sense of peace and belonging. The Shri Mariamman Temple, one of the oldest Hindu temples in South Africa, is a vibrant testament to the Indian community’s long-standing presence here. Walking into the temple, the colorful idols, the scent of sandalwood, and the soft chants of prayers took me straight back to the temples of my hometown. Participating in festivals like Diwali here is an unforgettable experience. The streets light up with fireworks, the air is filled with the sweet aroma of traditional Indian sweets like gulab jamun and jalebi, and the sense of community is palpable.

Though I miss India, Durban has become my second home. The Indian community here is large and close-knit, and we celebrate our traditions with pride. The festivals, the food, and even the language bind us together, even if we’re miles away from India. There’s something truly magical about living in a place where cultures blend so seamlessly. It’s not just about preserving the past, but also about creating something new—a fusion that honors both Indian and South African identities.

Shri Mariammen Temple

Shri Mariammen Temple

I’ve also learned to appreciate the local Zulu culture, with its vibrant traditions and deep connection to the land. The Zulu people share many values with Indians—family, respect for elders, and the importance of community. Living in Durban has allowed me to see how different cultures can coexist, learn from each other, and thrive.

For anyone considering a visit to Durban, I would say this: come for the beaches, but stay for the culture. The city is a melting pot, rich with the flavors of India, Africa, and beyond. Whether it’s the spicy curries, the sound of Bollywood music drifting through the streets, or the sight of women in saris shopping in local markets, Durban offers a unique blend of worlds that feels familiar and foreign all at once.

Durban, with its soul steeped in Indian tradition, has helped me find a sense of belonging far from home. Here, I don’t just live—I thrive, surrounded by the best of both worlds.

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