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Lost in Lagos: An Indian expat’s journey from chaos to comfort

Contributed By: Samay Sharma
Lagos, Nigeria, Zip Code: 101241

When my company told me I was being sent to Lagos, Nigeria, I wasn’t sure how to feel. I had never been to Africa before. I had heard a lot about Lagos—some of it exciting, some of it intimidating. People said it was loud, chaotic, and unpredictable. But they also said it was full of life.

I arrived on a humid evening. The moment I stepped out of the airport, I felt the energy of the city. Cars honked non-stop, people moved quickly, and vendors called out to passengers, selling everything from snacks to SIM cards. The roads were packed with yellow minibuses, bikes, and pedestrians weaving in and out of traffic. It reminded me of India in many ways—the hustle, the noise, the organized chaos.

Lagos

My company had arranged an apartment for me in Victoria Island, one of the nicer parts of Lagos. The drive there was my first real look at the city. I saw modern glass buildings next to street markets. Fancy hotels stood across from tiny roadside stalls selling roasted corn and plantains. Lagos, I realized, was a city of contrasts.

First Few Weeks

The first few weeks were overwhelming. The traffic was crazy, and the power cuts took some getting used to. Work was demanding, and outside of office hours, I wasn’t sure where to go or what to do. I missed home. I missed the comfort of familiar faces, the sound of Hindi or Bengali in the background, and the taste of proper masala chai.

But slowly, Lagos started to open up to me. I found an Indian grocery store in Lekki and stocked up on my favorite spices. I discovered Indian restaurants where I could get butter chicken and dal that tasted just like home. And then I found the Indian community.

 

Finding My People

The Indian community in Lagos is small but strong. There are businessmen, IT professionals, engineers, and families who have been living here for years. I met them at a Diwali event, and instantly, I felt at home. It was comforting to speak in Hindi again, to eat homemade samosas, and to share stories of adjusting to life in Lagos.

We started meeting regularly. Sunday cricket matches in Ikoyi, dinner gatherings, and even movie nights where we watched the latest Bollywood films. That sense of belonging made a huge difference.

Discovering Lagos

Once I settled in, I started exploring more. Lagos is a city that never stops moving. During the day, markets are packed with traders selling everything from fabric to electronics. At night, the city comes alive with music, food, and dancing.

Nike Art Gallery

One of my first outings was to Lekki Conservation Centre, a beautiful green escape from the traffic and noise. Walking on the canopy bridge high above the trees, I felt like I was in another world. Another weekend, I visited Nike Art Gallery, a four-story building filled with African paintings, sculptures, and crafts. The artwork was bold and full of stories. It reminded me of the intricate storytelling we have in Indian art.

Food in Lagos was another adventure. Nigerian food is spicy, rich, and full of flavor. I tried jollof rice, a dish that West Africans take very seriously. It was smoky, spicy, and delicious. I also tasted suya, a street-side grilled meat dish covered in a peppery spice mix. It had a kick, but it was addictive.

The Heart of the City

One of my most memorable experiences was visiting Balogun Market, one of the busiest markets in Lagos. The narrow lanes were packed with people shouting prices, bargaining, and carrying huge loads on their heads. The energy was electric. I bought some beautiful Ankara fabric, a bright African print cloth, and had a tailor make me a custom shirt.

Old Lagos

Old Lagos

But beyond the markets and modern high-rises, I also discovered Old Lagos. Walking through the streets of Lagos Island, I saw colonial-era buildings with fading facades, remnants of the time when the British ruled here. Some streets had an old-world charm, lined with European-style buildings, banks, and churches that felt like a different era frozen in time. Broad Street and Marina had a vintage elegance, a quiet contrast to the fast-moving Lagos of today.

I also spent time at Tarkwa Bay, a quiet beach away from the city rush. Sitting by the ocean, watching the waves crash, I felt a sense of peace. Lagos is intense, but it also has its calm moments.

A New Perspective

I’ve been in Lagos for over a year now. If you had asked me in the beginning whether I would enjoy it, I wouldn’t have been sure. But now, I can say that I do. The city has a raw, unfiltered energy. It challenges you. It surprises you. But it also welcomes you with open arms.

I’ve made friends here—both Indians and Nigerians. I’ve learned how to navigate the traffic, how to greet people in Yoruba, and how to enjoy a good plate of pepper soup without tearing up. I’ve danced to Afrobeats, watched the sun set over the Atlantic, and discovered a culture that is rich, warm, and deeply connected to its roots.

Lagos isn’t always easy, but it has a way of growing on you. And somewhere between the chaos and the charm, I’ve found a place that feels a little like home.

 

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